Extra Schmaltz!

Chili Relleno Casserole

2012-01-22T22:55:00.000-05:00

This is not exactly the dish from our childhood, since it's a bit more complex than the "quick, we need some food" version that's in the Melting Pot cookbook. However, the freshly roasted poblano pepper really gives it a lot more flavor than if you use canned chilies, and roasting them really doesn't take that long. I recommend gloves for processing the pepper.

Ingredients
2 poblano peppers (or if you're spiciness adverse, 1 poblano and 1 Anaheim pepper), roasted, skinned, and cut into thin 1-2" long strips
1 can black beans, drained
1/4 onion, minced finely
1 c. grated cheddar (for filling) and 1/2 c. for topping
2 Tbsp. minced cilantro
1/4-1/2 c. salsa (depending on desired juiciness)
(Optional) 1 cooked chicken breast, shredded
1-2 tsp. salt

Corn tortillas

Diced tomatoes for garnish

Instructions
Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. Whomp together everything except 1/2 c. of cheese, which you'll use for the topping. Check the seasoning before assembling.

Grease a large loaf pan, then add the filling, followed by a layer of tortillas, followed by a layer of filling, and so on until you've used up the filling. It should be topped at the end with a layer of tortillas, with remaining cheese sprinkled on top. You can also add a bit of salsa to this layer. Bake until the cheese is quite gooey. Serve with diced tomatoes on top, and sour cream if you're into that sort of thing.

Stir Fried Green Beans

2011-12-13T21:13:00.005-05:00

These turned out so well (and was so easy), I thought I'd just put it on here for reference:

Ingredients
1 pound green beans, gross ends removed
4 cloves garlic, cut into slices
1 Tbsp ginger, skinned and cut into slices
2 Tbsp high temperature oil

1-2 Tbsp soy sauce
1/2-1 tsp sesame oil
Tabasco to taste(optional)

1 Tbsp roasted sesame seeds (optional)

Preparation
Blanch green beans until still crispy.

Heat oil in a wok until shimmering. Add garlic and ginger, and fry for about a minute, stirring constantly and not allowing them to burn. Add green beans and cook until the edges start to change color. Add soy sauce, sesame oil and tabasco, cook until the green beans have absorbed the flavor. Garnish with sesame seeds.

Sauerkraut and Bratwurst Brötchen Sandwiches

2011-12-03T19:21:00.001-05:00

I created these (with heavy inspiration from Kramarczuk's) for a German themed dinner party. I made the hard rolls from scratch from the Joy of Cooking recipe, though you could buy them for a faster meal. I couldn't help spicing them up, so maybe they have some Hungarian influence?

1 dozen small hard rolls (see below)
5-6 uncooked bratwurst
1 large can sauerkraut
1 large carrot, grated
1 medium onion, sliced thinly
1/2 c. white wine or vermouth
1/3 c. water
2 Tbsp. oil
2 Tbsp. sweet paprika
2 tsp. sharp paprika
1 tsp. dried sage
1 tsp. white pepper
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
2 Tbsp. salt
2 bay leaves

Optional:
Hot mustard or horseradish from Kramarczuk's

Begin by browning the sausages whole in the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot. Turn the sausage occasionally so that they brown and sear. Once they are browned nicely (they do not have to be cooked through), remove them from the pot and allow them to cool enough to handle. Chop them coarsely. Save the fat and drippings in the pot.

Meanwhile, drain the sauerkraut in a colander and rinse twice, then squeeze out the moisture.

Add the sliced onion to the pot and cook them, stirring occasionally, so that they turn brown on the edges and the moisture they release releases any drippings from the pot. Stir in the ground spices so that they coat the onions. Once the spices start to sizzle, add the wine and allow it to evaporate somewhat. Add in the sauerkraut, grated carrot, chopped sausage, and bay leaves, and stir to combine. Lightly tap the mixture down so that it sits on the bottom of the pot and pour the water over. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, checking and stirring occasionally so that it doesn't scorch. The ingredients will release more moisture. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Joy of Cooking Hard Rolls

1/4 c. warm water
1 package active dry yeast
1 c. warm water
2 c. AP flour
2 Tbsp. vegetable shortening
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 1/4 tsp. salt
2 large egg whites
2 c. AP flour
Cornmeal
Dissolve yeast in 1/4 c. warm water for 5 minutes. Add the remaining warm water, the sugar, salt, shortening, and 2 c. flour and mix well. The dough will still be very wet and shaggy.

Beat the two egg whites into soft peaks (honestly I'm not sure why this is necessary) and then fold into the bread. Gradually stir in the remaining two cups of flour until the dough is moist but no longer sticky. You may need to switch to kneading to get the last quarter cup of flour in.

Knead on a lightly floured surface for 7 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl and turn it once to coat with oil. Cover and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled--1 to 1.5 hours.

Punch the dough down, knead it briefly, and return to the bowl to let it double again, about 1 hour.

Punch down the dough and pinch into 12 rolls. Knead the rolls lightly and roll them so that they have a smooth top surface. Sprinkle a flat surface with cornmeal and place the rolls on the surface for their final rising. Cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap and allow them to double again, about 1 hour. 20 minutes before baking, remove the plastic wrap to allow the surface to dry, and make a slash across each roll with a sharp knife 1/4" deep.

Heat oven to 425°F. Place a 9x13" baking pan on the lower rack, underneath where the rolls will go. Place the rolls on cookie drying racks, or a similar fine-gauge mesh rack and place the racks on the top oven rack. Pour 2 c. boiling water into the baking pan to create a steam source for the rolls (this will make them crisp on the outside).

Bake for 14-20 minutes until brown and crusty. Move the rolls around once of your oven heats unevenly. Internal temperature should be 190-200°F. Serve while still hot or reheat later for 4-6 minutes in a 400°F oven.

Pumpkin Bars with Cream Cheese Frosting

2011-11-14T00:02:00.001-05:00

I don't know what people did with pumpkins before they baked them into bars and topped them with delectable frosting, but I'm sure it was a sad era for humankind. Fortunately we have these bars! Super moist, autumnal spices, tangy-sweet, rich frosting. No better way to plump up for winter.

Note: these would also be very good (dare I say better? ) with Cooked Flour Frosting, which is not as rich as cream cheese frosting and doesn't require you to remember to buy cream cheese.

Preheat oven to 350°. Grease the bottom only of a 10 x 13" pan (allows cake to climb up the sides).

15 oz. pumpkin puree (1 can)
1 c. vegetable oil
1 c. granulated sugar
2/3 c. light brown sugar
4 eggs
1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour

2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. garam masala
1 tsp. salt

1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1 8 oz. package cream cheese, softened
2 c. powdered sugar, sifted
1 tsp. vanilla

If you are using whole pumpkin, be sure to puree or strain the cooked pumpkin so that it is smooth before use. I used a pink warty Galeux D'Eysines pumpkin, baked for an hour at 350°.

Beat together the pumpkin, oil, sugar, and eggs in a large bowl until frothy and fully combined. Sift together the dry ingredients. Add the dry ingredients to the wet and whisk together until well combined but do not overmix. Pour into the baking pan and bake for 35 minutes (add 5 minutes if using a 9x11" pan). Allow to cool completely. For extra-moist cake, cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature overnight.

To make frosting, beat together the butter and cream cheese until fluffy. Beat in the sifted powdered sugar until fully combined. Add the vanilla and beat again until fluffy.

Frost the cooled pumpkin bars and then watch them disappear! Note: you will likely have extra frosting--better make some banana bread to use it up!

Cinnamon Apple Pancakes

2011-10-22T17:02:00.004-04:00

This might not justify posting an entire recipe if it weren't for the fact that it was AMAZING. It's mostly a variation on Mom's original pancake recipe, but it's more than the sum of its parts, and is perfect for fall weather. They turn out really fluffy- you can make them with normal milk, but the buttermilk really makes them that much better.

Ingredients
Dry:
2 c. flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda (optional)
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. salt
1-2 tsp. cinnamon to taste

Wet:
2 eggs beaten.
2 Tbsp. oil or melted butter
Buttermilk (which combined with wet ingredients equals 2 cups total, so ~1.5 cups) or milk + 1 Tbsp. acid

1 large apple (I used one of those giant Jonagolds) cored and either grated or food processed.

Walnuts, crushed.

Preparation
Combine wet ingredients with each other, dry ingredients with each other, then mix wet into dry until combined with some lumps left. Fold in apple. Pour the pancakes into a greased pan - add the crushed walnuts to the pancake before you flip it, like you would for blueberries or bananas. You don't have to add nuts (that would be the eunuch variation.)

You can serve this with more crushed walnuts on top, and applesauce if you like. I had mine with lots of butter and syrup.

Strawberry Jello-O Cupcakes with Vanilla-bean Cooked Flour Frosting

2011-09-18T18:23:00.002-04:00

These cupcakes are completely bonkers. Moist, springy, flavorful, but not overly rich. They are based on my Apple Cupcakes recipe with a vanilla-bean version of Frances Frosting. The basic principle could be used with any flavor--and I've had it as a sheet cake with orange jello and mandarin oranges, which was fantastic. You can go 100% trailer trash and frost it with Cool-Whip, but I recommend the frosting variation below.

You can see the incredibly moist strawberry interior of a completed cupcake in the lower right.

1 recipe Apple Cupcakes (or other white or yellow cake)
1 package strawberry Jell-O
1 c. boiling water
12 strawberry fruit snacks for garnish
foil cupcake liners with paper lining
pink sprinkles
~2 c. frosting (see below)

Place the paper liners in the cupcake pan, saving the foil liners for later. Fill each cup to within 1/4" of the rim. Bake as directed (22 minutes). Allow to cool to about room temperature in the pan.

Poke 10-12 holes in each cupcake. In a cup with a pouring spout, mix the package of jell-o with the boiling water until dissolved. Pour the hot liquid over each cupcake, trying to stay within the cup liner. Allow to cool completely for at least 3 hours in the fridge.

Remove the cupcakes from the pan, brushing off any extra Jell-O. Put the foil liners back on the cupcakes (if you're into appearances, that is). Frost each cake with 1/3" frosting and decorate with sprinkles and a strawberry gummy.

Vanilla-Bean Cooked Flour Frosting

3/4 c. milk
scant 2 Tbsp. flour
1/2 vanilla bean
1 pinch salt
1 stick (1/2 c. unsalted butter) at room temperature
3/4 c. powdered sugar
1 Tbsp. vanilla extract

Whisk together the flour and milk in a small, heavy-bottomed sauce pan. Split the vanilla bean and scrape out the beans and add to the pan. Add a small pinch of salt. Bring just to a boil and then reduce to a simmer, whisking constantly for 10 minutes. The liquid should be a pourable porridge. Allow to cool to room temperature.

In a large bowl, cream the butter and then add in the powder sugar, creaming until light and fluffy. When the milk and flour are cool, beat in gradually, alternating with the vanilla extract. The resulting flour is light and fluffy, with a whipped cream flavor, but easier to work with and less likely to soggify your cake.

Apple Cupcakes

2011-09-17T22:51:00.000-04:00

These are based on a Texas sheet cake recipe and turn out unbelievably moist and springy, ready for whatever frosting tickles your fancy. They have the added advantage of not needing the tiresome butter-creaming step. This recipe also makes a great sheet cake, but may need a couple more minutes. Makes 12+ cupcakes.

Preheat oven to 350°

1/2 c. unsalted butter (1 stick)
3 apples, peeled
1.5 c. sugar
1/2 c. buttermilk or sour cream
2 eggs
1 Tbsp. vanilla
2 c. all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. baking powder
3/4 tsp. salt

Grate the apples into a bowl. Squeeze them dry, retaining the juice in a measuring cup. Add water (if needed) to reach 1 c. liquid. Place the juice and the butter into a large saucepan. Bring to a boil.

While mixture is still warm, whisk in the sugar, then buttermilk and vanilla. Allow the mixture to cool while you sift together the dry ingredients. When it is cool enough not to cook the eggs, whisk in the eggs.

Mix in the flour gradually, blending thoroughly. Fold in the grated apples. It will be a pour-able batter.

Pour into cupcake cups and bake for 22 minutes, or until toothpick comes out clean. Allow to cool before frosting.

Honey Wheat Bread

2011-08-08T14:12:00.007-04:00

This is such a simple recipe, but it turned out just the way I wanted it to - almost exactly like Great Harvest's Honey Wheat bread, without the bother of grinding my own flour. I don't think their version has oats in it, but I like them and they tend to keep the bread nice and soft. This recipe produces two loaves, since if you're making bread by hand, you might as well make two.

Honey Wheat Oat Bread
2 c. white flour
2 c. wheat flour
2 c. oats
1/2 c. honey
1/4 c. oil (I mixed olive and salad)
2 Tbsp. molasses
2.5 tsp salt
3 tsp yeast
2.25 or so cups of water

Optional:
Flax seeds
Sunflower seeds

Standard bread procedure: Mix, knead, let rise, punch down, let rise again, shape into loaves (I made two loaves), place in greased loaf pans, let rise a bit in pan, bake at 350 until done.

Chicken Pozole Verde

2011-06-27T00:37:00.000-04:00

Pozole is a hearty Mexican soup or stew that come in several different styles (with pork or chicken, red, white or green). This recipe can be made either as a pozole, using hominy, or as a white chicken chili, using cannellini beans (or heck, use both). The tomatillos are optional, but add a nice tartness and more color. You will be surprised that all the green chiles don't make it very hot, so feel free to up the spice level if you like. This serves 6 hungry people.


This is the chicken chili style, which uses beans instead of hominy.

3 lbs bone-in chicken, skin removed
2 large red onions, one half reserved for garnish
3 jalapeño chiles, one reserved for garnish
3 anaheim chiles
2 poblano chiles
5-6 tomatillos, husked
7 garlic cloves, crushed
1 heaping Tbsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 cans white beans or hominy, rinsed and drained
1/2 bundle cilantro, chopped
Salt and black pepper
Oil or lard

Garnishes:
3 limes, quartered (reserve juice of one)
1 c. thinly sliced radishes
1-2 avocados, diced or sliced
Jalapeños, diced
Mexican oregano, to taste
Thinly sliced cabbage
Black pepper
Corn chips or tostadas
Sour cream

Salt and pepper the chicken breasts. Fry them in some oil in a deep frying pan with a lid. Turn them a couple of times and once they are nicely browned on the edges (~10 min), add two peeled garlic cloves and cover the breasts with water. Bring just to a boil, turn off the heat, then put the lid on and let them sit undisturbed for 20 minutes. After they are cooked through, remove them from the liquid and allow them to cool, saving the broth for the soup.

Meanwhile, remove the stems and seeds from all the peppers. Dice one jalapeño and half of a red onion and reserve for garnish. Use a food processor to coarsely chop the remaining onion, peppers, tomatillos, and garlic together.

In a dutch oven, heat more oil and fry the chopped onion-pepper mixture with the cumin and coriander until it softens and begins to brown on the edges and the moisture is reduced. If you are making white chili, and not pozole, blend one of the cans of beans in the food processor with 1 cup of the liquid from the chicken. If you are making pozole, remove half of the cooked onion-pepper mixture and process it until it is smooth (or use a stick blender) and then return it to the pot.

Add the chicken broth and beans/hominy to the pot. Pull apart the chicken and add to the pot. If you make it my way there's a lot of chicken and not much broth, but you can add more water/broth if you like. Add the cilantro and juice of lime and adjust the salt and pepper.

Garnish with onions, peppers, radishes, avocado, cabbage, oregoano, etc... as you like. Eat with tostadas smeared with sour cream.

Brown Lentil Soup with Cauliflower

2011-06-14T06:33:00.002-04:00

Or "How to Make Brown Lentil Soup that Doesn't Taste Like Dirt".

Here in Morocco, Melanie and I have had the problem that we can't find anything other than brown lentils - she's asked locals, and looked around pretty extensively, and hasn't been able to find the much tastier red variety. However, after a lot of travel, we were desperately craving something simple and vegetarian like lentil soup, and so I did my best to come up with a recipe that wasn't just edible, but delicious.

Ingredients
1 smallish head cauliflower, cut into very small pieces
1 large carrot, cut into small pieces
1 medium onion, minced
4-7 cloves garlic, peeled but whole
2 Tbsp olive oil

1.5-2.5 c. brown lentils, picked over and cleaned if they're sketchy
Water or broth sufficient for the quantity of lentils (I always just eyeball this)
2-3 bay leaves (depending on size and quality)
1/2 tsp cumin (optional)
S&P

Parsley (flat leaf is best), minced, 1-2 tsp per bowl of soup
Lemon wedges

Preparation
Start by sauteeing the onion and garlic in the olive oil on medium heat in a pressure cooker or heavy bottomed soup pan, then add the carrots, and then the cauliflower. Cook until everything is getting nicely browned around the edges, but without burning. Add the lentils, water/broth, cumin, and a good amount of both salt and papper. If you're using a pressure cooker, cover, wait until it comes to pressure, and then cook 20 minutes. If you're using a normal pot, simmer covered until the lentils are quite soft.

We don't have an immersion blender, but if you like you can blend the soup when it's finished cooking.

Serve the soup garnished with parsley, with lemon wedges on the side. The parsley really isn't optional - it makes the soup that much more delicious and fresh. It makes a soup that seems wintery much more summery.

Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies

2011-04-29T16:40:00.001-04:00

I found this recipe partly by experimentation, partly by accident. Baking while distracted, I accidentally added too much flour, which gave the cookies more body and kept them from spreading out too much. I intentionally used part shortening to further prevent spreading, and some corn syrup to keep them moist. I drizzled them with leftover chocolate glaze from Chocolate Meringue Gondolas.

If you click to enlarge this picture the cookies look more delicious.

Preheat oven to 375° and place parchment paper on two baking sheets.

1 lb. all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
4 oz. unsalted butter, softened (1 stick)
4 oz. shortening, softened
3/4 c. white sugar
1/2 c. brown sugar
1/4 c. light corn syrup
2 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla extract
12 oz. semi-sweet chocolate chips (I used half white chocolate)
1/2 c. roasted walnuts, finely chopped

Sift together the flour, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl.

In a large bowl, beat the butter and shortening until they are smooth and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Beat in the sugar and corn syrup until well combined and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Beat in the eggs and vanilla until fully combined.

Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and combine well with a spatula. Fold in the chocolate chips and nuts.

Lightly roll the dough into golf-ball sized balls and place them 1" or more apart on the cookie sheets. Bake 8-9 minutes, or until the bottom has just started to turn very light brown and when you slide a spatula under the cookie it lifts up without bending and breaking in the middle. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the pan for 5 minutes. If you want to glaze them, wait until they are fully cool. Store in an air-tight container.

Chocolate Meringue Gondolas

2011-04-21T22:08:00.000-04:00

This recipe is from Great Cookies by Carole Walters. The results are light, delectable, and wheat-free. Great for after a heavy meal when you want a touch of sweetness, and perfect for Passover.

Preheat oven to 275°, with racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Meringues

2 oz. unsweetened chocolate, broken into pieces
4 large egg whites at room temp
1/8 tsp. salt
1 c. superfine sugar, divided
1/2 tsp. vanilla

For the meringues, chop the unsweetened chocolate in the food processor until fine. I found putting the chocolate in the freezer for 15 minutes helped keep it cool.

Place the egg whites in a large bowl and beat at medium until frothy. Add the salt, increase the speed, and beat until it forms firm peaks. Add 2/3 c. sugar, 1 Tbsp. at a time. Add the vanilla and beat 1 minute more until it forms stiff peaks.

Fold in the remaining 1/3 cup sugar in four additions, then fold in the chopped chocolate.

Form 'quenelles' (little football shapes) with the meringue by passing the mixture between two spoons and place them on the parchment 2" apart. I believe that using a pastry bag to pipe them out would work too. Hell, just blob them on to the parchment if you want.

Start baking both pans at the same time. Bake 50 minutes until firm and crisp, rotating the sheets partway through cooking. Turn off the oven and leave the door closed and pans inside for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand 5 minutes before taking the cookies off the sheet.

Glaze

4 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate
2 Tbsp. half and half
1 Tbsp. honey
2 tsp. hot water
3/4 tsp. vanilla
1/4 c. chopped unsalted pistachios

In a microwave safe bowl (you can also do this in a heavy-bottomed pan on the stove), heat the chocolate at 50% in 60 second bursts until the chocolate melts and is stir-able. Add the half and half and heat again at 50% for 30 second bursts until it blends well when stirred. Add the honey, hot water, and vanilla.

Drizzle onto the meringues and then sprinkle with the pistachios. Try to find the unsalted ones because they have a more vibrant green. Allow the chocolate to cure on the cookies for 2 hours before eating.

Pasta Fazool (pasta e fagioli)

2011-04-21T21:38:00.002-04:00

This is the perfect, quick one-dish meal. You don't even need to add meat (it's good though)! It's great for using spring vegetables and cupboard staples. You could probably eat this for every meal for the rest of your life and not experience any nutritional deficiencies.

1 lb. loose Italian sausage
1 can cannellini beans
1/2 box chunky pasta
1 bunch broccoli raab (rapini)
1 onion, sliced
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/4 c. grated hard cheese
3 Tbsp. Italian parsley, chopped
Salt and fresh ground black pepper

Cook up the sausage in a large frying pan. Meanwhile boil a large pot of well-salted water. Immerse the raab in the water for 1-2 minutes until it is bright green and tender. Remove with tongs and immerse in cold water to stop the cooking. Drain well and chop. Using the same water, boil the pasta until cooked and drain.

Add the onion to the sausage and cook until it starts to become tender. Add the beans, chopped raab, crushed garlic, and parsley and stir until heated through. Add the cooked pasta and toss to combine. Turn off the heat and add the cheese and season with salt and black pepper to taste.

On aioli

2011-04-12T05:21:00.007-04:00

I tried to write this as a comment to Lillian's post on mayonnaise sandwiches or something, but then it was way too long. So here is a good start on what you need to know about making aioli, though there is plenty left un-said.

This is a base-line aioli recipe that I have used in restaurants:

1 egg yolk

~1/2 clove garlic

1 cup oil

pinch salt

squeeze lemon

~1TB water

On emulsification: There are a few different kinds of emulsification, achieved via different emulsifiers. The compounds in egg yolks are what we would consider true, or chemical emulsifiers, as they actually bond to fat molecules, keeping them separate from one another in a matrix of water. When the fat in your mixture does all run together, it is "broken," meaning that you have a puddle of liquid with a big oil slick on top; not aioli. As oil exhibits cohesive properties, it does not want to be parted from itself once it has been allowing to join together, so the key, and the purpose of the slow addition of the oil, is to imagine that you are in fact lubricating the oil molecules at all times with a surrounding layer of water. Fail to keep the oil "immersed," and you are done for.

Sciency scientist types have found that a single egg yolk is capable of emulsifying gallons of oil. The true limiting factor for the stability of your emulsion is the ratio of water to fat; no number of yolks will emulsify more than a certain quantity of fat into a given amount of water. Thus, we start the aioli both with some of the lemon you will be using for flavor, and an additional quantity of water for insurance. While it is possible to emulsify 1 cup of oil into a bit of lemon juice with a single yolk, this typically results in an extremely stiff aioli, which is somewhat unpleasant on the palate, so you will want water anyway for consistency purposes. The basic ratio of this recipe is simple: 1 yolk, 1 cup oil, ~1-2 TB liquid (none of which necessarily need be lemon juice)

On oil: Say you smear 2 ounces of aioli on your sandwhich. That means you have about 1.5 ounces of straight oil that you are about to eat. If you use nothing but extra virgin oil, you have pretty much just ruined your sandwhich with the addition of a jigger of strongly flavored oil; hence, aioli tends not to be made with 100% EVOO. I have encountered two schools of thought on this; 1: using a blend of extra virgin olive oil and something more inert, typically canola oil; 2: using 100% olive oil, but something mildly flavored, meaning either pure olive oil or a super light EVOO, or a blend. In the former, I would go something like 60:40 canola:EVOO, assuming your EVOO is pretty good. In the latter, try to find a decent pure olive oil (which is to say an oil which is 100% derived from olives, but does not have a low enough oleic acid content to qualify as virgin/extra virgin, but is also not shitty enough to be classified as pomace oil).

Crush the garlic into a paste in a mortar or thoroughly smash it with the side of a knife, a saute pan, etc. It needs to be completely obliterated. Generally, you start your aioli with a little bit of garlic as it is a natural emulsifier, but you want to leave some aside to adjust so it doesn't turn into a garlic bomb. Generally, if I am making a 3 yolk batch, I would smash up 4-5 cloves of garlic, and ultimately end up using about half of that.

Combine the egg yolk, your starter garlic, a squeeze of lemon juice, and a splash of water in a bowl. Whisk the mixture until fully combined, and the egg yolk begins to lighten in color and soften in texture. This indicates that you have begun to denature the proteins in the yolk, which frees up the emulsifying compounds.

Begin adding oil whilst whisking vigorously. You really need to beat the shit out of it for the first third or so of your oil. Keep it moving, and really use the space in your bowl so that at no point is any one bit of the aioli in contact with a significant quantity of straight oil. This stage will take the majority of the time, say 6-10 minutes for a 1 yolk batch.

If all has gone according to plan, you should have a stiff, stable emulsion with 1/3 to 1/2 of the total oil added. Now is a good time to adjust for liquid, knowing that it will increase in stiffness as you add more oil. This done, you can add your fat much more quickly, provided your whisking arm isn't too tired to keep things in motion.

When finished, adjust for salt (way more than you think you need), garlic (way more than you think you need), lemon (not as much as you think you need) and additional seasonings (anchovy, pimenton, calabrian chile, seville orange zest, etc). It definitely needs to age a couple hours to mellow, but you should know that as a rule, aioli is thrown away at the end of every night, in every restaurant.

Whisk vs food processor: Keeping in mind that in Italy and France aioli is traditionally made start-to-finish with a mortar and pestle (not to mention that it is often solely assembled using the power of the garlic itself, and egg yolk is considered by some nonnas to be a cheat), a whisk actually starts to feel luxurious. In anything less than a 4-5 cup batch (which is a ton of aioli) I have found that a food processor is actually highly at risk for breaking the emulsion, as the addition of oil is less consistent, and the motor heats the mixture, thereby precipitating additional caution which can actually result in it taking longer. With experience, you should be able to throw together a batch of aioli sufficient for a single meal in less than 10 minutes, without causing a big annoying mess in your cuisinart.

Broken aioli? Just add water! Put some liquid in a new bowl, and begin by whisking a tiny bit of your broken oily mess into that water. It should form up into a loose but emulsified sauce. You can now proceed even more slowly than you did before, because hurrying is probably how you broke that shit in the first place, you slouch. Once your arm starts to fall off, you can really appreciate the merits of doing things right the first time.

Poached Chicken Breast

2011-04-08T22:46:00.002-04:00

In our age of searing and encrusting and caramelizing, poaching has gotten a bad rap. But I defy you to find a technique for cooking delicate items that yields a juicier, more versatile product in less time, with less mess. True poaching involves an acid such as lemon juice or wine (or so Wikipedia tells me--who knows?), but I find that's optional with this recipe. Below is the simplest approach with fewest ingredients, but feel free to experiment with adding other flavoring agents. The recipe can be scaled up but be sure to keep the chicken breasts less than 3/4" thick.

8-16 oz. boneless skinless chicken breast
cold water to cover
2-3 tsp. salt
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed

Ensure that all chicken breasts are less than 3/4" thick, either by pounding them or by slicing or butterflying any thick parts of the breast. Place the breasts in a saucepan with a tight fitting lid. Cover with cold water and add the salt and garlic. You could also add wine or lemon juice, onions, celery, lemongrass, herbs or spices. Bring the liquid just to a boil--as soon as you see large bubbles coming up, turn the heat off and place the lid on the pot. Allow to sit for 15 minutes undisturbed.

The chicken will be cooked through but still very moist and tender. You can store the chicken in the poaching liquid or use the liquid for cooking. The chicken is great in recipes such as chicken salad, enchiladas, in noodle soup, with cheese on toast, etc...

This same technique can be used for fish, but I don't know how long to leave it sitting. I would assume only 5-8 minutes.

Joe's thoughts on poaching a whole bird:

This technique is actually excellent with an entire bird as well, especially when combined with a shock in cold liquid. Generally, the shocking step is highly recommended, as it relaxes the muscle fibers, further inhibiting moisture loss. You can then very gently re-warm the meat to serving temp, without further cooking it.

In chinese cookery, the chicken is plunged into boiling water and shocked in cold several times in order to gradually and evenly cook it through; almost a poach-braise. White rice is subsequently prepared with the chickeny poaching water. Combine with piquant condiments such as XO sauce and chile paste for some of the best white food ever.

Also: the above is for so-called "white" poached chicken. "Red" chicken calls for tinting the poaching liquid with soy, and usually xiaoxing (aka Shaoxing) wine, for the element of acidity described in the original post (although I am unfamiliar with the definition of poaching which requires acidity?).

Roast Beef, Garlic Aioli, and Roasted Red Pepper Sandwiches

2011-03-31T21:53:00.003-04:00

I never would have expected that one of the best meals I ever made would be a sandwich. Of course, the roast beef could be served as-is or with a sauce, but combined with the aioli (garlic and olive oil mayonnaise) and served on a roll with some roasted red peppers it's outstanding. This is a case when 'slow food' really pays off.

The white bits on top are real provolone, which doesn't slice well, but tastes great.

Roast Beef

3 lb. rump roast, rolled with butcher's twine
~1.5 quarts of warm water
3 Tbsp. wine
3 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1/2 c. Kosher salt
1/4 c. brown sugar
2 cloves garlic, smashed
2 bay leaves
5 allspice berries
10 black peppercorns, lightly crushed
1/4 tsp. celery salt

Dissolve the salt and sugar in the warm water, wine, and Worcestershire sauce to make 2 gallons of brine. Add the spices. Place the rump roast and brine in a one-gallon ziploc and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat the oven to 325°. Pat the roast dry and then coat it lightly with oil or lard. Place on a rack in a roasting pan. Halfway through cooking add hot water to the pan to prevent scorching. For medium-rare, roast at 325° for 30 minutes per pound (1.5 hours), allowing 20-30 minutes to rest. Internal temperature should be ~122° and rise to 130° as it rests. Remove butcher's twine and slice thinly across the grain.

Aioli

Read Joe's extensive technique article and recipe about aiolis.

This recipe is an emulsion of water and lemon juice in oil, which means it can be finicky. It works best if you begin with all the ingredients at room temperature. Do your best to avoid 'shocking' the ingredients by adding too much of one thing at a time--be sure to drizzle the oil in very slowly, almost drop-by-drop. Also, some versions use only one egg yolk, but I call for two because they facilitate the emulsification process and make the recipe more fool-proof. Two yolks makes for a thicker sauce, but that makes the aioli stand out more on the sandwich--a good thing, because it's delicious!

1/2 c. olive oil

2 egg yolks at room temperature

2 cloves garlic

1 Tbsp. cool water

3 tsp. dijon mustard

2 tsp. lemon juice

1/2 tsp. sea salt

Begin by tempering the whole garlic cloves. Either blanch them in boiling water for ~20 seconds or toss them in a dry pan over medium heat and roast until they start to brown on the edges. Place them in the food processor, add the salt and blend until finely chopped and combined.

Add the egg yolks and dijon mustard and keep the processor blending as you slowly drizzle in half of the oil, stopping occasionally to scrape the sides down. Add the water, mustard, and lemon juice and continue to blend as you drizzle in the remaining oil (patiently!). Blend in more salt if needed.

Sandwiches

Ciabatta rolls, warmed
Roasted red peppers or chopped red pepper spread (can be found at Lunds)
Roast beef
Aioli
Provolone cheese

Assemble sandwiches and dig in!

(Note for next time: I think this could have used a touch or rosemary, either in the brine or infused in the aioli oil.)

Fettuccine Alfredo

2011-03-29T21:11:00.004-04:00

Is this the true alfredo sauce? I have no idea, as I have not been to Italy. (Answer is: No, a true alfredo is just butter and parm. I wanted to make something with reduced cream, though.) This is, however, amazingly decadent and delicious and is made with simple ingredients. It also kicks the pants off of any pre-made alfredo sauce.

A meal that could possibly make vegetarianism bearable (hah!).

3/4 lb. fettuccine noodles*
1 pint heavy cream
3/4 stick butter
1/3 c. grated Parmiggiano-Reggiano
1/3 c. grated Pecorino Romano
Salt for noodle water
Lots of freshly ground black pepper

Place the cream in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil and then simmer until it reduces by half (about 25 minutes). Whisk in 4-5 tablespoons cold butter, alternating with the cheese.

Boil the the noodles in well-salted water until firm al dente (10 minutes). Reserve one cup of the cooking water and drain the noodles.

In the pan that you used to cook the noodles, heat the remaining tablespoon of butter. Add the noodles and toss them over medium heat until they start to sizzle. Add ~1/2 c. of the noodle water and continue tossing until the liquid is absorbed and makes a starchy coating on the noodle. Pour in the alfredo sauce, add lots of black pepper, and toss to coat and heat through (but don't heat for too long). Eat immediately--does not reheat well. Would be very good with asparagus on the side.

*Yes, I know that only making 3/4 of a box of pasta is fiddly, but I find that a full pound is always too much. Also you could probably add entire stick of butter, so do that if you really want to stick it to the (nutritionist) man.

Spring Rolls with Chicken Salad and Peanut Sauce

2011-03-27T20:35:00.001-04:00

This recipe is actually a melding of two previous recipes: Hmong Chicken Salad and Fresh Spring Rolls. It would be hard to find something that isn't delicious in a spring roll, but this is a particularly tasty combination with a zingy, juicy flavor. I am also including the recipe for hoisin peanut sauce. This batch makes about 8 spring rolls--increase as necessary.

Chicken Salad Spring Rolls

8 banh trang spring roll wrappers
4 oz. rice vermicelli noodles
2 c. Hmong Chicken Salad
4 large lettuce leaves, sliced very thin across the midrib
1 carrot, thinly julienned
3" slice of daikon, julienned

Place the rice noodles in a bowl and submerge in boiling water. Let sit for 3 minutes. Drain and rinse in cold water. Cut the pile of noodles a few times with kitchen scissors.

Fill a pie platter with warm water. Briefly wet a wrapper in the warm water and place it on a moistened plate. Place a rectangular pile of lettuce in the center of the wrapper, then put a small amount of the chicken salad on top (the lettuce protects the wrapper from the chicken's moisture). Arrange the carrots and daikon on the wrapper and then place some noodles on top.

Roll the wrapper by starting at the bottom, then fold the sides over, and roll it firmly but gently all the way up. If you stack up the finished rolls, put plastic wrap between them so they don't stick together.

Hoisin Peanut Sauce

1/3 c. hoisin sauce
3 Tbsp. smooth peanut butter
2 Tbsp. rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. water
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 Tbsp. chili garlic or Sriracha sauce
chopped roasted peanuts

Combine the hoisin sauce, rice vinegar, water, and peanut butter. I find this works better if I warm up the sauce for a few seconds in the microwave. Stir in the garlic and chili garlic sauce. Sprinkle with chopped roasted peanuts.

Bias Cut Green Beans

2011-03-18T22:43:00.000-04:00

I've had asparagus cut this way, but it's not as fun to eat when you don't get to bite into the shoot. I think that green beans are a better application for this technique. They're a bit of a pain to cut like this, but boy they're yummy.

8-16 oz. green beans
1 red bell pepper
3 shallots
olive oil
dash of red pepper flakes
splash of white wine
ground black pepper
salt

Boil some well salted water for blanching the green beans. Cut the green beans on a fine, thin bias. Blanch for 3 minutes or until they are just tender. Shock in cold water and drain.

Cut the red pepper into a very fine dice, and slice the shallots thinly. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan and add the shallots and red pepper flakes. Saute for 2 minutes and then add the diced red pepper and saute until they start to brown on the edges. Add the green beans and black pepper and stir for 2 minutes. Add the wine and salt and simmer until the liquid evaporates.

Massaman Curry

2011-03-08T11:48:00.002-05:00

If you want a delicious and comforting curry that will keep you full for hours or perhaps even days, this is the one for you. It uses ingredients that are easy to keep on hand, so it's good in a pinch. It's more sweet than spicy, so it's good for the spice-averse. There are many ways to make it, but this is how I learned. You can make it with chicken or beef, though if you use beef you may want to simmer the meat in the liquid a lot longer.

1 lb. boneless chicken, cut into 1" pieces
14 oz. can of coconut milk
4 oz. can of massaman curry paste
1 large onion, cut into 1" pieces
1 1/2 c. potato or white sweet potato in 1" pieces
1/2 c. carrots, in chunks (optional)
14 oz. water or chicken broth
1/2 c. raw peanuts or cashews
3 Tbsp. palm sugar or brown sugar
3 Tbsp. tamarind sauce (can be substituted with 1 tsp. lime juice)
2 Tbsp. fish sauce
Salt to taste

Begin by cooking the potato in a separate pan until almost fully cooked.

In a deep saute pan or wok, heat the coconut milk until it begins to bubble. Stir in the curry paste and simmer it until the volume is reduced by half. Add the water or chicken broth, peanuts, carrots (if using), and onion and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the potatoes, chicken, and sugar, and simmer for 3-4 minutes until the meat is just cooked through. Add the tamarind and fish sauces. Adjust salt if needed. Serve over fluffy rice with some green veggies on the side.

Miso Sesame Marinade

2011-02-26T20:37:00.004-05:00

Whenever I buy miso, I wonder if I could do anything with it other than making soup, especially since it often comes in absurdly large packages. Mysteriously, the package of miso I has some tantalizing tips about its use as a marinade, but no recipe. I poked around online, and the recipes range from crazy complex to just lame sounding, so I made my own version. I used it to marinate chicken prior to BBQing, but I think it'd probably be good with pork or even fish if you're into that sort of thing. It was really delicious, and I highly recommend it.

The ingredients are given in approximate proportions, but you should mix it to taste before putting it on the meat. This made about enough to marinate an entire cut chicken.

Ingredients
2 Tbsp miso (the kind you use will change the flavor of course)
1/3 c. warm water (enough to dissolve the miso)
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
1 tsp honey
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp sesame seeds
1 tsp light soy sauce
1 tsp dark soy sauce

I didn't add any salt, as the miso was pretty salty as it is.

Spinach with Chickpeas

2011-02-13T22:19:00.003-05:00

This is another recipe from Chef Ramzi's cookbook. Very easy to make, good on rice or with pita bread. Had a bit of protein from the chickpeas, which makes it a nice satisfying side dish (or main dish for skinny vegetarians.)

Ingredients
2 10oz packets of frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry, or 2 pounds fresh spinach, blanched
1 onion, cut into thin strips
2 tsp garlic crushed with salt
1 can chickpeas, boiled for 5 minutes or nuked for 2
2 small, or 1 medium lemon (about 1/2 c. juice)
1/4 tsp cinnamon (or equivalent Arabic spice mix)
1/2 tsp cumin
1 tsp salt

Preparation

Saute onions and garlic in olive oil until starting to brown, then add chickpeas and cook until slightly browed. Add spinach and spices, cook for a few minutes, then add lemon juice and cook for another couple minutes until the lemon no longer dominates the flavor. If it is too dry (i.e. sticking to the bottom of the pan), add a bit of water. You can serve it with fried onions and lemon slices if you like.

Chicken Parmigiana Revisited

2011-02-08T22:26:00.001-05:00

Call it chicken parmesan, parmigiana, or parm, most of the time this winds up being a soggy, insipid dish. BUT--never fear, dear readers, I have improved it! The trick is to put the chicken (or veal) cutlets on top of the sauce, which keeps the breading from getting soft. I keep the cutlets small so that they have more crispy surface area and I use noodles instead of spaghetti, so it serves like a casserole. Overall, it helps to use high-quality ingredients for maximum flavor--the ones listed below are ideal, but you can use block mozarella, canned sauce, etc...

Cutlets
1.5 lb. chicken breasts
1.5 c. flour
3 eggs, beaten
1.5 c. panko crumbs
Salt and pepper
Oil for frying

Sauce
1 large can plum tomatoes
1 large can diced tomatoes
1/4 c. olive oil
2 tbsp. tomato paste
1 medium onion, minced
3 cloves + 2 cloves garlic
1/4 c. red wine
1 Tbsp. oregano
2 tsp. dried basil or a handful of fresh
1 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
2 bay leaves
Salt to taste + more black pepper

Noodle Base and Topping
3/4 lb. bow-tie or ziti pasta
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1/3 c. ground Parmigiano Reggiano
1/2 lb. fresh mozarella
3 Tbsp. ground Pecorino Romano
1 c. blanched and chopped spinach (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 400°. Butter a 7"x11" baking dish.

To make the sauce, heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Sweat the onions with the red pepper flakes and a pinch of salt until the onions start to brown slightly, then add the 3 cloves garlic and stir until it becomes fragrant. Add the oregano, black pepper, and dried basil. Stir in the tomato paste to coat. Add the wine and use it to deglaze the pan. Puree the plum tomatoes, and add them to the pan, along with the can of diced tomatoes and the bay leaves. Simmer the sauce until it becomes thick, reduces in volume by about 40%, and loses its watery look--about 45 minutes. Crush the remaining garlic and thinly slice the fresh basil, and add to the sauce to simmer 2 more minutes. Add more black pepper and adjust the salt.

To make the cutlets, slice the chicken into pieces about the size of the palm of your hand. Pound to flatten. Sprinkle the pieces liberally with salt and pepper. Toss them in flour to coat. Heat up enough oil to pan-fry them. Dip the floured pieces in the egg and then dredge them in the panko crumbs. Fry the cutlets until golden brown, taking care not to crowd the pan. You can drain them now for use later, or place them directly on the noodles and sauce (see below).

Assembly instructions.

Boil the noodles in well-salted water until cooled al dente. Drain them and toss with olive oil, chopped spinach, and black pepper. Place the noodles in the baking dish and sprinkle with some of the Parmigiano and Pecorino. Ladle the sauce over the noodles, then arrange the cutlets over the sauce. Sprinkle the remaining grated cheese over the top, then slice the mozarella and place it over the cutlets.

Bake for 15 minutes until the cheese starts to brown slightly at the edges. Enjoy!

Finished product!

Kadhai Paneer

2011-02-08T17:54:00.002-05:00

I synthesized this from a couple of recipes. It turned out pretty well, and we could use some more Indian recipes on the blog.

Ingredients
1/2 pound paneer or tofu
1 red and 1 green bell pepper, cut into 1.5-2" squares

1.5 Tbsp coriander seeds
2 dried red chilies
4-6 cloves garlic, minced

4-6 medium tomatoes (depending on desired sauciness), peeled by immersing in hot water
1/4" slice of fresh ginger, skinned

1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 Tbsp chopped fenugreek or celery leaves
Salt

Preparation
Fry coriander seeds and chili peppers in about 2 Tbsp oil until the seeds start to brown slightly, then add garlic and cook until golden brown, taking care not to burn the coriander seeds.

Combine the stuff in the pan, the tomatoes, and the ginger in a food processor or blender. Puree well.

Fry the paneer in oil until browned. In the same pan, fry the bell pepper, taking care not to overcook them since they'll be cooked more later. Drain on a paper towel.

In the same pan, if necessary add a little oil, and then add the cumin seeds. When they start popping, add the tomato puree, turmeric and celery/fenugreek leaves. Let cook for about 5 minutes, or until reduced. Check for spiciness - you can add some cayenne pepper here, but it might be hot enough already - and then add salt to taste. Add a small quantity of water if necessary, then add the paneer and bell peppers.

I don't have a picture of the dish, but here's a picture of Manjula's version, which is one of the recipes I used (her version calls for fewer tomatoes so is less saucy)

Middle Eastern Veggie Ragout

2011-02-07T23:37:00.003-05:00

I got this recipe from a cookbook by Chef Ramzi, which contains a nice mix of Middle Eastern and international recipes. I have no idea if it's an "authentic" Middle Eastern recipe, but it uses ingredients and techniques from that region. It's also really easy, uses simple ingredients and is quite tasty.

Ingredients
1 small onion, cut into thin strips
3-6 cloves crushed garlic (traditionally pounded in a mortar and pestle with salt)
2 zucchini, cut into circles
1 eggplant, peeled and cut into 1" cubes
2 medium tomatoes, cubed
1 c. water
1/2 tsp cumin (or to taste)
1/4 tsp cinnamon (or to taste)
S&P

Preparation
In a heavy bottomed, wide sauce pan or dutch oven, saute the onion and garlic together on medium-high in about 3 Tbsp of olive oil until transparent, then add the eggplant and cook until it starts to get soft around the edges. Add zucchini and cook for another couple of minutes until they start to soften a little bit. Add the tomatoes and the spices, and cook until the juice is starting to leave the tomatoes. Add the water, and cover, cooking on medium until everything is reasonably smooshy. Serve with pita bread, or on vermicelli rice.

Chimichurri

2011-02-01T21:13:00.001-05:00

I don't know if this is a true chimichurri: if you want a discussion of what that means, read here. What it is is a zingy green-ish sauce that's good on meat and fish. It's very intense when you first make it, but it will mellow in the fridge. I used the herbs I had on hand--you can certainly alter these if you like. I actually left out the oil last time, since I wanted to use it as an extra-zingy topping. If you are going to use it as a marinade, add the oil, which will help with heat transfer when you cook with it, and will protect the herbs from scorching.

1/2 c. mild olive oil or grapeseed oil (optional--see note above)
1/2 c. onion
3 garlic cloves
1 c. chopped tomatoes
1 small medium-spicy chili
1 bundle cilantro
1/2 bundle parsley
2 limes, juiced
1/4 c. red or white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. dried mint, or several branches of fresh
1 Tbsp. thyme
1 Tbsp. marjoram
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. salt
3 Tbsp. salt or to taste
2 bay leaves

Grind the onions, garlic, peppers, tomato, and fresh herbs in a blender or food processor. Add the lime juice, vinegar, and dried herbs and spices. Adjust the salt and sugar to taste. Add more vinegar if you want it to be more liquid. Add the bay leaves and let the sauce mellow at least 30 minutes before eating, though it can be used for weeks.

Use the sauce as a marinade, and/or spoon it over grilled, pan-fried, or roasted meat or fish. Hell, just eat it with a spoon!

NOTE:
Clever readers may notice this is similar to two other recipes: Spiedies, and Cilantro Chutney. This differs from Spiedies by the addition of cumin, tomato, chili, and the fact that oil is optional. This differs from Cilantro Chutney by the possibility of using oil, the use of citrus juice, and the wider variety of herbs and spices. All are delicious!

Scalloped Potatoes

2011-01-31T13:24:00.002-05:00

Hooray for cheezy comfort food! The key to this recipe is to slice waxy potatoes ethereally thin (no more than 1/8", ideally more like 1/16"). I accomplished this with the slicing side of my grater. I tried using the food processor, but it didn't slice them thin enough. Even if you can't get them that thin, it will still taste good, but the texture won't be as nice.

Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease an 7"x11" baking dish.

1 quart very thinly sliced peeled, waxy potatoes (such as red potatoes or Yukon gold)
1 can Cream of Onion Soup
1.5 c. milk
3/4 c. grated Swiss cheese
3/4 c. grated cheddar cheese (mix cheeses together to form 1.5 c)
2 Tbsp. butter
3 Tbsp. flour
1 tsp. ground mustard
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. seasoned salt
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1/4 tsp. cayenne

Make a roux: heat the butter in a small pan until it starts to shimmer, then add the flour. It will bubble up; stir frequently until it is a slightly browned paste, taking care not to let it scorch.

Whisk the canned soup, milk, and spices over medium high heat, until it starts to simmer at the edges. Whisk in the roux and continue to simmer until the sauce thickens. Stir in 1 c. of the cheeses, reserving 1/2 c. to sprinkle on top. Adjust the seasonings as desired.

Lay out 1 c. of the potato slices on the bottom of the pan so that they overlap slightly. Ladle a thin layer of cheese sauce over the potatoes, and then repeat, until you have 4 layers of potatoes and a layer of cheese sauce on top (only 3 layers of potatoes if your slices are thick). Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top, and sprinkle with some paprika for color.

Bake for 1 hour, or until the top is browned and bubbly and the potatoes are tender. The potatoes on the bottom of the pan should have formed a lovely browned crust (make sure they don't burn).

You can always spice this up a bit by adding chives, bacon, more spices, whatever. If you don't want to make a roux then you could thicken the sauce with corn starch, but it won't have as much flavor and it won't hold as well in the fridge (if indeed you have any leftovers).

Yogi Tea (Chai)

2011-01-22T21:27:00.008-05:00

This is a recipe* that I used back in the '70s BC (before children). I rediscovered chai recently and have tried many brands that are premixed. This is an easy-to-make, great drink for a cold winter day, and in the warm months it is delicious chilled. The directions are for stove-top preparation, but I seem to remember that I made it all day in my Harvest Orange crock pot. The final volume will be approximately 50% of the original volume. It will fill your home with a wonderful aroma.

Plan on boiling for 3 hours if on the stove.

Combine in saucepan:

2 quarts water
15 whole cloves
20 black peppercorns
3 sticks cinnamon
20 whole cardamom pods (split them first)
8 slices fresh ginger (1/4" - not necessary to peel)

Bring water to boil, add cloves and boil one minute. Add remaining ingredients, cover and boil for 30 minutes. Reduce heat and simmer for 2-3 hours. Remove from heat and add:

1/2 tsp. regular or decaf black tea (1-2 teabags)
dairy or soy milk and your choice of sweetener to taste.

Let cool and strain. Store in refrigerator. If you wish, you may store it before adding milk and sweetener. Add it to the tea after reheating a cup.

I hope you enjoy this warm, spicy libation this winter.

*This recipe comes from Yogi Bhajan, who introduced Kundalini to the west in the late 60s. Recipe courtesy of yogayoga.com

Moroccan Bread with Semolina Flour

2011-01-20T13:07:00.005-05:00

Here's a recipe from Melanie - I know we already have an ok-ish Moroccan bread recipe, but this one is a bit more authentic. However, every bakery/family does the bread a little bit differently. This recipe is heavy on the semolina flour, while others are more wheaty. It's also our first family-made video recipe!

Here's a video so you can see the steps, with the recipe below.

Moroccan Bread

Makes about five round loaves of bread, approximately one inch thick and six inches in diameter.

1. Mix together flours. The below suggestion is my host family’s house recipe. I alter it by substituting some whole wheat flour sometimes; you can experiment with spelt if you like.

3 cups or 1/2 kilo of semolina flour (I use the Bob’s Red Mill variety from the co-op when I’m in the U.S.)

1 cup of white flour

2. Add the following to the flour mixture:
- generous Tablespoon of salt,
- about two teaspoons of seeds (I use white and black sesame seeds and anise seeds, but one could experiment with rye or other ingredients instead)
- about one Tablespoon of salad oil or melted butter
- yeast (I use about one packet or two teaspoons of dry yeast in the U.S. In Morocco, I use a couple generous spoonfuls of cake yeast.)

3. Pour some lukewarm water over the yeast, crumbling the yeast if using cake yeast and mixing it by hand in either case. Add water and knead bread until elastic dough forms.

4. Squeeze dough into balls about the size of a tennis ball, placing them one after another on a flat surface so that you can work with them in the order in which you formed them into balls (giving them a moment to rise and settle). This recipe usually results in about five balls of dough for me, but you can alter their size or number if you like.

5. Pick up the first ball in the line, and form it into a compact sphere by rolling it on a flat surface (or against the edge of a bowl).

6. Pour a little of the yellow semolina flour onto a flat surface (In Morocco, we use a qasriyya, which is the bottom half of a tajine dish. In the U.S., I just use my counter top). Set the first ball of dough onto the circle of flour, and pour a little more of the same flour on top. Now flatten the ball into a round circle, patting in a circular motion to create a round loaf of bread about one-half inch thick and about five inches in diameter.

7. Allow loaves to rise. In Morocco, we lay the loaves on a blanket and cover them with a thick coverlet to protect them from the cold. We leave them for about one hour before baking. In Austin’s hot weather, I can leave the loaves to rise under a light towel. In colder weather, I have tried letting them rise in a barely warm oven for about twenty minutes. I’m still experimenting for the best method.

8. When risen to about 1” thick, bake in oven about one-half hour at 325 degrees Fahrenheit. BEFORE placing loaves in oven for baking, run a fork over them (about five times per loaf) to make some holes to ensure even cooking.

Sweet Potatoes in Chili Powder Sauce

2011-01-17T22:41:00.003-05:00

This makes a nice combination of sweet, savory and a little bit of spicy, and is a really nice accompaniment to roasts and meaty entrees.

"Sweet Potatoes in Chili Powder Sauce" is probably not the catchiest name, but I figured "Southwest Style Sweet Potatoes wasn't terribly clear, and I made up the recipe, so probably nobody in the Southwest actually makes this.

Ingredients
4 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-1" cubes
3 large shallots, minced
1 small garlic clove, minced
1/4-1 jalapeno, no seeds, slice very thin, to desired spiciness. It's mostly just supposed to have a hint of spice
1 stick butter
2 Tbsp brown sugar
1.5 tsp chili powder
1 tsp salt

Steps
Heat oven to 350.

If you have a microwave, to save yourself some baking time, nuke the potatoes for about 4 minutes, or until somewhat softened. You could also probably boil them for a little bit instead of the microwave. Note that you're not going for the same level of mushiness as in candied yams, more like the texture of home fries.

In a saucepan, melt the butter, then add shallots, garlic and jalapeno. Let sizzle until shallots are starting to turn transparent, then add the brown sugar, chili powder and salt. Let combine on low heat for a few minute, then mix the sauce thoroughly with the potatoes and put everything in a baking dish. Bake until the potatoes are the desired texture, which will depend on your oven, whether you nuked them, and the potatoes that you have. If you have a particularly woody seeming yam, nuke it or boil it more, separate from the other potatoes. The trickiest part of this dish is uneven cooking of the yams.

Vietnamese Carrot & Radish Pickles

2011-01-13T14:30:00.000-05:00

These sweet-and-sour pickles are a wonderful accompaniment to many dishes, and are an especially nice contrast to meat-heavy or fried main dishes. I also like to add them to salads, sandwiches, and even instant noodles. You can also make them with red radishes, which turns out beautiful and zingier than if you use daikon. These are best made at least an hour ahead, and they stay good for several weeks in the fridge.

For 1 lb combined peeled carrots and radish:

1 lb. carrots and radish, julienned
1 tsp. Kosher salt
1/3 c. rice vinegar
2 heaping Tbsp. brown sugar

After cutting the carrots and radishes, toss them with the salt and allow them to sit for 10 minutes. Drain the excess liquid and gently squeeze out the rest. Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar and pour this mixture over the carrots and radishes. Allow to sit for at least one hour before serving. Can be stored in a clean container in the fridge for several weeks.

BBQ Meatballs

2011-01-08T19:37:00.001-05:00

Where better to turn for down-home comfort food than a church cookbook? We had these at Christmas and they were delicious in an old-fashioned way. They're basically like meatloaf in ball form, and can be spiced up according to taste. From Elim Centennial 1883-1983 Cookbook, Elk River MN.

Makes about 55 1" balls.

Great with mashed potatoes and a veggie side.

Preheat oven to 375°

Meatballs:
2 lb ground beef
1 c. quick cooking oatmeal or breadcrumbs
1/2 c. milk
2 eggs
1 package onion soup mix

Roll into balls and bake on a cookie sheet for 30 minutes at 375°.

Sauce:
1 c. catsup
4 Tbsp. butter
4 Tbsp. light molasses
2 Tbsp. vinegar
4 Tbsp. water

Simmer the sauce ingredients for 15 minutes. Mix the meatballs into the sauce.

Chicken Tikka Masala

2011-01-01T06:07:00.002-05:00

I got this recipe from my friend Christine, who got it in turn from one of her students. I've adapted it a bit, and she adapted it herself so it's probably a bit different from the original at this point. I make no claims of authenticity, just deliciousness.

Ingredients

Chicken Tikka:
1 lb chicken breast, cut into 1-2” cubes
1 tsp salt
¼ tsp turmeric
¼ tsp cayeanne
¼ tsp garam masala
¼ tsp fresh ginger
1 clove garlic
1 Tbl plain yogurt
Optional: 1 tsp aamchu (dried mango) powder)

Other ingredients:
1 large onion, diced
2 Tbl chopped mint (optional)
1 (8oz) can tomato puree (or 3-4 tomatoes, peeled and seeded, then pureed)
¼ tsp fresh ginger
1 clove garlic
2 Serrano chilis, sedded, and minced (or just one, this can be spicy)
¼ tsp turmeric
½ tsp cayeanne
1 tsp garam masala
1 c. cream
Cilantro (for garnish)

Steps:
1. Mix Chicken Tikka ingredients, and marinate chicken at least one hour
2. Bake Chicken Tikkas at 375 for 30 minutes. Alternately, if you don’t want to use the oven (or don’t have one) fry tikkas until the outsides are nicely browned, then set aside.
3. Sautee onions and mint in 4 tablespoons oil, until onions are golden brown.
4. Add tomato puree and chilis, cook until the smell of canned tomato is reduced so that it doesn’t dominate the curry.
5. Add ginger, garlic, 1 tsp salt, turmeric, cayeanne, stir well.
6. Add cream, then simmer until you see the oily sheen on the top of the sauce.
7. Add chicken and garam masala and cook an additional 10 minutes until cooked through.
8. Garnish with minced cilantro.

Æbleskiver

2010-12-28T12:48:00.005-05:00

As a kid I loved day trips to the tourist-trap known as Solvang, for one big reason: æblesiver! These Danish goodies are little eggy puffs of air, made in a specialized cast-iron pan. Lucky me, Alex got me just such a pan! This dough would also make fantastic pancakes or waffles if you don't have the pan.

I used this æblesiver recipe from a Danish enclave in MN at Lutsen, but I cut it in half for two people. They recommend allowing 7 puffs per person, which is handy because that's how many fit in a pan. The recipe below makes ~18 puffs.

For the technique, watch this video from Solvang:

1 c. buttermilk
2 eggs, separated
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. oil
1 pinch salt
1 c. flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda

Beat the egg whites until stiff. Whisk together the yolks, sugar, oil, and salt in a large measuring cup with a pour spout. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and baking soda and then add it to the liquid ingredients. Whisk until very smooth. Gently fold in the egg whites.

Heat the pan over medium heat. You want it to give you a little sizzle when you pour in the dough, but not too hot or the æblesiver will cook too quickly. Add a small pat of butter to each hole and swish it around with a pastry brush, brushing some butter on the flat surfaces as well.

Pour batter into each hole until its about 90% full. Use a skewer or knitting needle (which you will use later for flipping them) to cut the batter between pours. By the time you finish filling the holes it will be almost time to start turning them.

Use your skewer to loosen the edges of the dough, and then turn each puff 90° onto its side. Then go through and rotate them two more times so that they cook in sphere shape (go watch the video to see how this is done). You can continue to brown and turn them if they aren't golden enough.

In Solvang they're typically served with raspberry jam and powdered sugar, but you can put any tasty thing you like. Enjoy!

Beef Udon

2010-12-25T00:25:00.000-05:00

Nothing like a beefy hot bowl of noodles on Christmas Eve! I was able to make this with odds and ends I had on hand. You can top it with whatever vegetables and things you have. I had only a small piece of lean beef, but if you have something with more bones and cartilage you'll get more flavor. You could also use pork or chicken.

6-8 oz beef
1/2 yellow onion, with skin
1" knob of ginger
2 garlic cloves
8 black peppercorns
2-3 dried shiitake mushrooms
2" piece of kombu (optional)
6 c. water
2 Tbsp. oil

1-2 tsp. dashi granules
2 Tbsp. rice wine or sherry
3-4 Tbsp. light soy sauce
1 tsp. sesame oil
1 tsp. rice vinegar

salt and sugar to taste

2 bundles dried udon noodles
3 green onions, sliced thinly

Garnish ideas:
1 carrot, julienned
2 leaves Chinese cabbage
poached eggs
1/4 c. soft tofu, in cubes
Pickled daikon (takuan)
7-spice powder (shichimi togarashi)

Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in the base of your pressure cooker, and sear the outside of the beef. Add the yellow onion, ginger, peppercorns, garlic, shiitake mushrooms, kombu, and water. Pressure cook for 20 minutes.

Release the pressure and strain out the ingredients, saving the beef. Slice the beef for later use. Season the broth with the dashi, soy sauce, etc...

Meanwhile, cook the udon noodles according to directions. At its simplest, serve the noodles, sliced beef, broth, and green onions with a drizzle of sesame oil.

To fancy it up, prepare the garnish. I recommend briefly sauteeing the carrots and cabbage in some oil, sesame oil, and a dash of soy sauce. Feel free to get creative with what you put on top!

Moroccan Style Kufta in Tomato Sauce

2010-12-22T12:41:00.005-05:00

This is a recipe from Melanie/Melanie's host family here in Rabat. It's pretty easy, and makes a delicious, warm and hearty meal.

Ingredients:
Kufta balls:
1 # ground beef
1 tsp cumin
1/2-1 tsp tahmiira (Moroccan mild pepper powder, a bit different but replaceable with a mix of mild paprika and cayeanne)
2 Tbsps minced Italian parsley
Salt
Pepper

Sauce:
3-4 medium tomatoes, skinned and seeded, diced (this is how tomatoes are usually prepared for Moroccan recipes, whether cooked or salads)
1/2 tsp tahmiira
1/2 tsp cumin
3 Tbsps minced Italian parsley
Salt
Pepper
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp salad oil

Steps:

Before starting on the kufta, get the sauce cooking in a large skillet. Heat the oil on medium heat, then add the tomatoes. When the tomatoes start releasing their juice, add the spices, then turn it down to a simmer.

While the sauce is simmering, combine the ingredients for the kufta, then form into balls about 1" in diameter.

When the tomatoes have cooked down, you can either continue cooking in a skillet, adding the kufta balls to the sauce, or you can shift everything to a pressure cooker. Either simmer until the kufta balls are cooked through, or pressure cook for about 15 minutes (everything's cooked in pressure cookers here, it's the secret to tajine). Eat with good bread that will absorb the sauce, preferably Moroccan round loaves of bread.

Spaghetti in tomato sauce

2010-12-12T19:40:00.003-05:00

I have learned a lot about making pasta in the last 2 years or so; it is not a coincidence that this overlaps with my having very little time to contribute to the blog. I'd like to illustrate what I now know about the "true" italian approach to pasta with a dish from the menu of the restaurant where I currently work, Delfina.

This dish has, approximately, 4 ingredients. It is also one of the signature dishes of a well-regarded restaurant which has served dozens of them every single day of its 12 year history, which should indicate that the devil is going to be in the details. It is officially listed on the menu as "Spaghetti with plum tomatoes, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, and peperoncini"

Ingredients:

Spaghetti: This is a dry pasta dish. Texture-wise, the sauce adds little more than mouth-feel, so everything depends on the noodle itself. The industry standard for Italian dry pasta is Rustichella d'Abruzzo. I think you can find it retail at fancy-pants grocery stores, or online. De Cecco is pretty decent too. And there is no reason not to use Barilla or equivalent; as always, make sure you cook it properly.

Tomato sauce: The only cheat in the "4 ingredients" is in the tomato sauce, which is itself comprised of 3 ingredients. For tomatoes, again the gold standard is Alta Cucina; whole-peeled San Marzano plum tomatoes, canned with a good amount of basil. According to the image on the front of the can, they are delicious enough to eat plain, on a fancy plate while wearing a suit. They are also astonishingly cheap, running a few bucks for a big 29 oz can, which would make you a couple quarts of sauce. Adequate subsitutes are Red Gold, or pretty much any similar imported canned tomato, using San Marzanos or equivalent, and in whole-peeled form.

Ingredients 2 and 3 are onion and garlic, and the technique for the sauce could hardly be simpler. Sweat chopped onion and garlic in oil until fully cooked but not colored. Smash up the canned tomatoes by hand, add them to the pot, and cook on low until reduced by about a third. This is your sauce.

EVOO: Simple: use the very best EVOO you feel like buying. At Delfina we use a rare boutique small batch Tuscan oil called Stephen Singer, which costs $27 for 750ml, or just over $1 per ounce. You probably do not have this at home; I know I don't. Buying decent oil in a big 1.5L can is generally the best bet, especially if you know somebody in a restaurant who can buy you one can out of a case, giving you an awesome wholesale price. The best brand you can generally find in normal grocery stores for a somewhat affordable price is Frantoia, usually running around $18 for a liter.

Peperoncini: This is fancy Italy-speak for chile flake. Delfina makes its own, by roasted a sheet tray of Arbol chiles until deep brown and aromatic, and then breaking them up into a rustic flake product by hand, which involves gas masks and extreme risk of irritated mucus membranes. At home? Toast a couple chile pods in a pan or in the oven until your kitchen makes you want to cry, let them cool, and roughly break them up or chop them.

The only other ingredient is whole fresh basil leaves.

Technique: I will give a full recipe first, with more in-depth notes below.

Blanche your spaghetti in boiling water until it is just tender enough to bend. Reserving the pasta water, remove the noodles to a saute pan, along with "enough sauce." Add to the pan a hearty pinch of salt, and a very scant pinch of chile flake.

We could call this stage one; at the restaurant, this brings the dish to "pre-fire" status.

To cook the pasta: Add to the saute pan enough of the pasta water to cover the noodles, but only just. Bring the pan to a boil and maintain it over maximum heat. At the very beginning, be careful with the noodles as they are still brittle and too much worrying will break them up into a mess of noodle-shards. But, once they become more supple, you need to constantly move the pasta and the pan to prevent them sticking to one another or to the pan, and the keep the sauce from burning around the edges.

What you are attempting to do over the course of this procedure is find the intersection of having 0 additional liquid remaining in the pan and a perfectly cooked noodle. As it cooks, you will want to add small additional amounts of the pasta water if you think the sauce will dry out and burn before the pasta finishes cooking; but if you add too much, by the time that water has been reduced out of the sauce, your pasta will be hammered. This is only easy to do once you have made the dish, say, 100 times. Working a pasta station, you hit that milestone around week two. At home? Either be content to perfect this over a couple years, or start eating lots and lots of spaghetti.

To finish: Take about 4 medium sized basil leaves and tear them all rustic-like. Add the basil and a medium dash (say, 3/4 oz) of your chosen olive oil. Toss the pasta over the heat until the basil just wilts and the oil is fully emulsified into the sauce.

Serve as is, or, if you are a barbarian, with some sort of hard aged cheese grated on top.

1) Do not salt your pasta water: Yes, every recipe for pasta ever includes the redundant "large pot of heavily salted water." We will be using that pasta water to adjust the consistency of the pasta as it cooks in the pan with the sauce, so if it is salted, you will almost invariably be screwed by the time the pasta is fully cooked. You do, therefore, need to salt the sauce itself liberally at the beginning in order to give the salt a chance of penetrating into the pasta. Get a feel for how to add 90% of the salt the dish needs at the beginning so you have a bit of wiggle room to adjust at the end. This is something like a big 3-fingered pinch, when using Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt, and making a single portion. Mortons is denser (i.e. more saltiness-per-pinch) so be careful if that is your brand of choice.

2) Barely cook your pasta in the pot of water: I also directed you only to blanche the noodles in the water, until they bend enough to fit in your saute pan. The purpose of this method is to allow a perfectly tuned sauce with a perfectly cooked noodle, and for virtually 100% of the starch from the pasta to remain in the final sauce, allowing for the ideal mouth-and-noodle-coating texture which we want.

3) Enough sauce?: For a large order of spaghetti, we use something like 7 dry ounces of noodles with 6 ounces of cooked tomato sauce. That said, the consistency of the sauce varies enormously, and I am not even certain about the portion for the noodles. Basically, imagine that you want a sauce which thoroughly coats all the noodles, without any residual tomato gunk left in the bowl after you have eaten; once you get an eye for it, you're really looking for the tint of the noodle itself.

The quantity of chile flake is difficult to describe or measure. It is something like a fraction of a single chile pod. The idea is not for the final dish to be spicy by any measure, but for the warming perfume of the chile to penetrate the palate in a hardly perceptible fashion.

Good luck, knowing that true dedication requires making a 4-ingredient dish several hundred times until you can, happening upon an in-progress pasta, immediately ascertain from an arm's length whether it needs more or less water, more or less tomato, and approximately how much longer until it has to cook.

Cowboy Chili

2010-12-11T21:58:00.001-05:00

Some say beans don't go in chili. I think this guy would eat anything in front of him.

We're home on the range tonight, or is it the Donner Pass? Being stuck inside during a historic snowstorm calls for improvisation, or in this case, a return to basics. Meat? Check. Dried chilis? Check. Can o' beans? Check. Chili here we come!

2 lbs. ground or finely chopped beef
1 large onion, chopped
2 Tbsp. bacon grease (you can also add some bacon)
3 dried ancho chilis
2 cloves garlic
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. Mexican oregano
2 Tbsp. salt
1 can of chili beans (optional) or 1 can tomato sauce
water

Honestly, I was out of chili powder, so I had to make the chili sauce from scratch. I added the beans mainly for liquid, but you could use tomatoes instead (or in addition).

Brown the meat in the bacon grease, seasoning it with some salt and black pepper. I like to pressure cook it for 10 minutes to make it more tender.

Cut the chilies open (kitchen scissors are good for this) and scrape out the seeds and remove the stems. Cover with just enough water to submerge and simmer for 10 minutes. Save the chili water and place the drained chilies in a blender or food processor with the garlic, black pepper, cumin, oregano, and 1 Tbsp. salt. Blend until smooth, adding just enough of the chili water to make a thick sauce. If the chili water tastes too bitter, use plain water instead.

Drain most of the excess liquid and fat off of the meat. Add the onions and chili sauce, and stir to coat. Add the chili beans with their liquid, and/or the tomato sauce. If the chili is too thick, add some water. Adjust the salt to taste.

I made mine all fancy-like with some chopped onions, peppers, cheddar cheese, and Yankee corn bread. I'm not sure if the cowboys would be appalled or if they would just gobble it up.

Roasted Bananas?

2010-12-11T10:48:00.002-05:00

While roasting trays of mixed vegetables one day, I had the bright idea of trying another approach to cooking fruit. I like it so much better cooked, and it seems much easier to digest. Here is what I did:

2 greenish bananas, sliced
1 tbsp butter, melted

Toss the banana slices with the butter gently (I did it all in the cast iron pan used to melt the butter). Spread them out into a single layer. Bake at 350 for a total of 1 1/2 hours, separating and flipping every half hour. Remove from pan to storage bowl and cool.

Once these are cool, they are 1)really ugly, and 2)incredibly delicious. They become caramelized and sweet the longer they cool. Use them in yogurt or in shakes. One thousand times more delicious that plain bananas!

Turkey and Sweet Potato Curry

2010-12-11T10:33:00.004-05:00

More turkey leftovers?

I found this in the Star Tribune around Thanksgiving, and it is quite delicious and a nice change from the usual turkey Tetrazinni approach. I tweaked a few ingredients and made it as shown below:

2 TBSP finely grated fresh ginger
2 TBSP finely chopped garlic
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (or more, if you like it hotter)
2 tomatoes chopped*
2 TBSP curry powder
2 TBSP garam masala
1 cup yogurt
1/2 bunch cilantro
1 lb. chopped cooked turkey (or chicken, or cooked meat of any kind)
1 TBSP olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1 lb. chopped cooked sweet potatoes
3 TBSP brown sugar (this can be left out or reduced if your left over sweet potatoes are already sweetened.
1/2 tsp salt (or to taste)
1 small can (5.6 oz, or 165 ml) coconut milk (or half and half)

Put ginger, garlic, pepper flakes, tomatoes*, curry powder, garam masala, yogurt and cilantro into a deep bowl and stir to combine. Add turkey, toss well, cover, and refrigerate for several hours or overnight. I like to use big ziploc bags for this step; they are airtight and take up less room in the fridge. And you can wash them and reuse them for years! (Mine said: mixed green beans, 2008 on it)

Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook until translucent. Stir in turkey and marinade, sweet potatoes, sugar, salt, and coconut milk; cook until heated through. Transfer to a large bowl and serve. (This is one of those dishes that they bring you in an Indian restaurant and all the polite diners get this look on their face that says, "Gee, that's not much food. What a ripoff." But it is really rich and delicious!)

* I didn't have tomatoes, so I substituted 1 TBSP tomato paste and 1/2 cup water. It tasted just fine, but you may prefer to use tomatoes for the variety of textures they provide).

Pumpkin Pie

2010-12-10T22:20:00.001-05:00

Making pumpkin pie from scratch is all well and good (I see I have a very elaborate recipe for it in my notes), but sometimes you just need/want an easy pie. This is my version of a basic recipe using canned goods. It is for a deep-dish pie crust, so you will have extra if you are using a standard pan.

Before...

...After!

Preheat the oven to 425°

1 unbaked pie crust
1 can pumpkin
1 can evaporated milk
2 whole eggs + 2 egg yolks
1/2 c. plain yogurt
3/4 c. light brown sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. garam masala
1/2 tsp. salt

Roll out the crust and place it in your pie pan. Blend together the pie filling ingredients. Pour the ingredients into the crust. Bake at 425° for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 350° and bake for another 40-50 minutes, or until it looks mostly set. Cool on a rack for at least 2 hours before slicing. I love pie!

Chicken Creole Style

2010-12-10T21:58:00.001-05:00

This recipe comes from the galley copy of the meat version of The Schwarzbein Principle. With salt added, of course (and a few other tweaks). I also use bone-in chicken breasts, which takes longer but produces juicier results. Allow some time for marination.

Served with Twice-Baked Potatoes. I removed the chicken from the bone after cooking.

4 bone-in chicken breasts
1/3 c. olive oil
2 Tbsp. dry sherry
4 tsp. Kosher salt
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. dried cumin
2 Tbsp. chopped shallots
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp. black pepper

Combine the ingredients in a dish suited to marinating (or ziploc bag). Place the chicken in the dish and spoon the marinade over, making sure to get some under the skin. Marinate at least one hour, mixing once or twice.

Preheat oven to 350°. Place the chicken breasts in a greased baking dish and bake until the chicken is tender and reaches an internal temperature of 165°, 60-75 minutes. Baste frequently while baking.

Twice-Baked Potatoes

2010-12-10T21:42:00.002-05:00

There is no worthier cause for burning your tongue than biting into a twice-baked potato. They're a bit of a hassle to make, but the payoff is delicious, and makes great leftovers. They can be seasoned any way you like--this is for a bacon jalapeño version.

6-7 medium russet potatoes
3 strips cooked bacon, chopped very fine
3 Tbsp. butter
3/4 block cheddar cheese, grated and divided
1 egg
1-2 jalapeños, seeded and diced fine
3 green onions, chopped fine
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. black pepper

Heat oven to 400.

Wash potatoes thoroughly and prick with a fork. Bake potatoes for 40-50 minutes, or until they are tender inside.While they are still hot, cut them in half, and scoop out the insides into a bowl (hold them with a hotpad). Place the skins on a greased baking sheet.

Mash the potato well, and add in the remaining ingredients (reserving 1/3 of the cheese for garnish), and mix well. Plop the mashed potato filling back into the skins, smooth down, and sprinkle with the remaining cheese.

Return to the oven for 15 minutes, then broil for 5 minutes or until the cheese is bubbly and browned. Careful, they're hot!

Couve Mineira aka Green Spaghetti

2010-12-06T23:38:00.002-05:00

These greens (translation: miner's kale) are traditionally served as a side to feijoada, a rich Brazilian black bean and meat stew (similar to cassoulet), often with orange slices. However, they make a great side-dish for nearly anything. Preparing the greens is laborious, but the rest of the cooking is easy.

2 bunches of collard greens
3 shallots, or 1 small red onion sliced thin
4 cloves of garlic, minced
2-4 Tbsp. bacon fat or oil
salt and pepper to taste

Wash the greens thoroughly and remove the mid-ribs by grasping the leaves in one hand and the rib on the other, and ripping it out. Stack the leaves flat, 6-8 leaves at a time, and roll them up very tightly. Using a very sharp knife (or mandoline), slice across the roll of leaves in 1/8" strips to make a very thin 'spaghetti'.

Heat the fat in a large pan with a close-fitting lid. Add the garlic and shallots and stir until it they slightly start to brown. Add the greens and toss in the fat to coat. Add a generous pinch of salt and some black pepper and stir. Put the lid on and let it steam for a couple of minutes until the greens are softened but still bright green (the washing water from the greens helps to steam them). Serve as-is or with orange slices.

NOTE: I adulterate this recipe all the time. I like to add red pepper flakes to the oil and a few dashes of Tobasco at the end. If the greens are particularly bitter, I add a little sugar. They are also good with some lemon juice or vinegar added.

Red Pepper Pork Chops

2010-12-06T23:25:00.001-05:00

This is a simple-yet-flavorful meal, perfect for a weeknight dinner. It helps if you can season the porkchops an hour or more ahead of time, but not required. Here I serve them over couscous, with Couve Mineira on the side. I used boneless pork chops, but you could use bone-in. In fact, this would probably be good with chicken breasts too. Make as many as you would like for dinner and leftovers--this is for 4 chops.

Serving Suggestion 1

Serving Suggestion 2

4 pork chops
3 Tbsp. Kosher salt
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. Aleppo pepper flakes
1 tsp. ground black pepper
2 medium red peppers, diced
3 shallots, minced
1/4 c. white wine
1/4 c. water or chicken broth
1 tsp. sugar
salt and pepper to taste
olive oil

Combine the seasonings and rub it on the pork chops (honestly, I just eyeball the seasonings and sprinkle them on directly). If you have thin chops, score the fat & silverskin layer on the edge at 3/4" intervals so that they don't warp and cook unevenly.

Heat the olive oil in a large pan to medium. Add the chops and cook about 10 minutes on each side (lower the heat if they are cooking too fast). Cook until the internal temperature is 155 (for the tiniest hint of pink) or 160 (for all white), and set them aside on a plate.

Add some more olive oil to the pan, increase the heat to medium-high, and add the shallots. Stir and cook for 2 minutes, then add the red peppers. Saute the vegetables so that they soften and caramelize slightly on the edges. Add wine and water/broth to deglaze the pan and simmer to create a sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and a hint of sugar.

Serve the chops whole or sliced, with the pepper relish on top. If you don't have Aleppo pepper, you can use paprika, but take extra care to ensure it doesn't scorch.

Beef Barley Stew

2010-12-03T21:50:00.000-05:00

This is an absolute classic--perfect for winter weather. Like most stew recipes, it can be adapted according to your ingredients. I think it pays to be methodical in your approach, but you can also throw everything in the crockpot the night before and still get much of the deliciousness. I prefer to use an enameled pot in a slow oven, because my malevolent crockpot burns things.

Before.

After.

Preheat oven to 300.

3 lb. chuck roast, cut into 1" chunks
1 large onion, diced
2 large carrots, diced
1 medium celeriac root, diced
1 c. small button mushrooms
2 Tbsp. flour
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 Tbsp. salt
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. thyme
1 tsp. rosemary
2 bay leaves
fat for frying
1-1.5 quart water and/or broth
1/2 c. wine
1/2 c. pearled barley
parsley, chopped (optional)
salt to taste

Pat the meat pieces dry and place them in a bowl. Toss them with the salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Heat the fat in a dutch oven until very hot (I like to use a combination of bacon fat and cooking oil). Fry the meat in batches, turning the pieces so that the edges brown and crisp, and remove them to a bowl.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions to the remaining fat. Stir them and scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to loosen the brown bits from frying. Add the celeriac and carrots and continue stirring and scraping.

Add the flour to the pot and stir to coat the vegetables. Allow it to brown and sizzle slightly. Add the tomato paste and stir to coat again. Stir in the mushrooms, thyme, and rosemary.

Add the broth or water, the wine, and the bay leaves. Usually red wine is recommended, but I think white works well. Bring to a boil, making sure to scrape any remaining bits off the bottom of the pot. Once it comes to a boil, put the lid on and place it in the oven. Allow ~3 hours for the stew to cook.

After 2 hrs. add the pearled barley. The stew is finished when the meat is fall-apart tender. Adjust the salt to taste and chopped parsley. I found that as I stirred it the celeriac and barley broke down enough to thicken the soup nicely.

The soup can be kept warm until dinnertime by reducing the oven to 225.

Delicious Thai-Inspired Stir-Fry

2010-11-22T22:06:00.003-05:00

I don't know what to call this one. It's really just a good stir-fry, based on one they made on America's Test Kitchen. You can use any meat, really, and any vegetables, so it's hard to pin down. Here's how I made this batch. I used chicken thighs, but the original recipe was for beef (something lean, like top round).

6-8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (~2 lbs.)
2 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 Tbsp. brown sugar
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. white pepper

2 heads broccoli, cut into florets
1 red pepper
1 red onion or 3-4 shallots
3 hot chilies
3 cloves garlic

3 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 Tbsp. rice vinegar
1/4 c. chicken broth (or water)
3 Tbsp. brown sugar
2 Tbsp. Chili Garlic Sauce
1 Tbsp. corn starch

Begin by boiling a pot of water for blanching the broccoli. Meanwhile, slice the meat into small pieces and then toss them with the coriander, white pepper, salt, brown sugar, and fish sauce. When the water boils, blanch the broccoli for 1 minute, then cool immediately with cold water and drain.

Slice the peppers and onions into bite-sized pieces, and mince the garlic and hot chilis. Mix together the remaining ingredients to form a sauce, and taste to check flavor. Adjust as necessary (should be pretty salty since it will be diluted by the remaining ingredients).

STIR-FRYING WORKS BEST IF YOU ARE CAREFUL AND METHODICAL AND DO NOT CROWD THE PAN.

Begin by heating some oil in your stir fry pan over high until it is almost smoking. Add half of the garlic and hot peppers. They will begin to brown almost immediately. Add 1/3 of the meat and cook until the edges are crisp and brown, but cook it quickly so that the inside part isn't fully cooked. Cook in batches, replenishing oil as needed, until all the meat is cooked. Set aside in a bowl.

Add more oil and the remaining garlic and chilies. Making sure the pan is very hot again, add the onion and stir. Then add the red peppers. The edges should get some browning but the vegetables should remain crisp.

Add the cooked broccoli and the meat, including the meat juice from the bowl. Reduce the heat to medium and toss ingredients to combine. Add the sauce, which should immediately begin to thicken, and stir to coat. Check flavors and add salt or sugar as needed.

Serve piping hot with fresh jasmine rice.

Obviously you can make this with any ingredients you like. Make sure to blanch anything large and chunky like broccoli.

Blueberry Walnut Bars

2010-11-22T18:44:00.008-05:00

Or, as I like to call them, Blueblerry Blars! This recipe is based on one from the Lunds & Byerly's free magazine, Real Food. These make a great breakfast or post-gym snack. Soon I will work on some other fillings, like apple or cherry.

~2.5 c. blueberries, fresh or frozen (or a whole 12 oz. bag)
1/4 c.white sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 tsp. lemon zest

1 c. walnuts, whole or in pieces
1.5 c. AP flour
1 heaping cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1/3 c. white sugar
1/3 c. packed brown sugar
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
1/2 tsp. salt
12 Tbsp. melted, unsalted butter (1.5 sticks)

Preheat oven to 350°.

Line an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper. Trust me--this recipe will be a lot easier if you use the paper.

Place the walnuts on the baking pan and put them in the oven to toast for 5-10 minutes. They will become fragrant and make squealing noises. Make sure they don't start to burn. Remove from the oven to cool when they are done. Chop coarsely.

(TIP: I melted the butter at this point by placing it in a metal bowl in the oven while the nuts were roasting).

Combine the 1/4 c. white sugar and cornstarch in a heavy saucepan and stir in the blueberries and lemon zest. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, stirring frequently and mashing the berries a bit, until the sauce thickens (~5 minutes). Set aside to cool.

In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, oats, 1/3 c. white sugar, 1/3c. brown sugar, salt, baking soda, cream of tartar, and walnuts. Stir in the melted butter and combine well.

Press two thirds of the oat mixture firmly and evenly into the bottom of the parchment-lined pan. Spread the blueberry mixture over it. Sprinkle the remaining oat mixture on top.

Bake at 350° until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Allow the dessert to cool completely in the pan. Pull the bars out of the pan using the parchment paper and place on a cutting board. Cut into 2" squares.

Oriental Style Rice Pudding

2010-11-22T17:35:00.005-05:00

A bit thick, but very, very yummy :)

This is an aromatic stovetop-simmered style (like kheer), instead of the baked, eggy Occidental style. I made this using cooked rice. You can certainly start with uncooked rice (look up a recipe online), but be prepared to spend a lot of time stirring. The recipe is flexible: you can adjust the liquid amount for the desired consistency, add different flavorings, additions such as raisins or nuts, and even different sources of liquids. I recommend using whole milk and adding cream or evaporated milk. The recipe can be served warm or cold.

3-4 c. cooked basmati or jasmine rice
2 c. whole milk
1 can evaporated milk
~1 c. boiling water
1/2 c. sugar
1 Tbsp. rose water
1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
1 pinch salt
1 Tbsp. butter (optional)
crushed pistachios for garnish

Heat the whole milk and evaporated milk (or whatever types of milk you are using). Add the rice, sugar, salt, and cardamom. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, stirring frequently for 25 minutes. You can add a pat of unsalted butter to keep a skin from forming.

Add the boiling water if the pudding becomes too thick, and continue to stir to break down the rice grains. Continue to cook and add liquid until pudding reaches desired consistency (it will thicken as it cools). Turn off the heat and stir in the rose water. Garnish with crushed nuts, more ground cardamom, or any other lovely things. Serve warm or cold. If you chill the pudding, put a layer of plastic wrap directly on top.

Eye of Round Roast

2010-11-16T21:38:00.003-05:00

If you are confused, those are pink potatoes on the right.

It may not be the most sophisticated cut of beef, but it's cheap, easy to find, and if you follow my directions, delicious. This makes a lean, slice-able roast. I made a 5-lb. roast, but you can make this with a 3- or 4-pounder, just adjust the cooking time. Allow some time to let the roast season before you roast it.

Preheat oven to 325.

1 5-lb. eye of round roast
4 Tbsp. Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. paprika
2 tsp. ground pepper
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. thyme
1/2 tsp. ground coriander

roasting vegetables (optional)
oil

Combine the spices. Pat the roast dry and rub the spices into it. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and let sit for 1-2 hrs or more.

Heat some oil for frying in the bottom of a roasting pan. Brown the roast on all sides. Place in the oven to roast. Add more oil to the pan if it starts to scorch.

I found that my roast cooked faster than most recipes said, probably because I was shooting for medium-ish instead of well-done. My 5-lb. roast got to 140 degrees in about 1.5 hrs. I'd say allow 20 minutes per pound. After it reaches 140, remove it from the oven and tent it loosely with foil, and it will rise by another 5 degrees.

Add your roasting vegetables accordingly--about 45 minutes before completion. I nestled them around my roast, tossing them in the oil, and then roasted them 10 minutes longer while the roast rested. Alternately, you could use the drippings to make gravy.

Just slice thinly across the grain, and dinner is served!

Enchiladas Verdes

2010-11-09T17:01:00.005-05:00

Well, we can't have a red enchilada recipe without a green enchilada recipe! Heck, we even have a half-assed mole enchilada recipe. I took it upon myself to make these from scratch, since it seems like there are always tomatillos for sale around here, and my food processor is working again. You can use canned sauce instead, if you like.

Salsa Verde

1.5 lbs (6-7) tomatillos
1 large onion
2-4 chiles verdes
3 cloves garlic
1 lime, juiced
1 small handful cilantro
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. salt, or to taste
1 tsp. sugar, or to taste
1 c. chicken broth, with extra chicken boullion added

Remove tomatillo husks and cut onion in half. Place tomatillos, onion, and chiles underneath the broiler (or on the grill) to roast, turning a few times as needed. When they have lots of brown, roasty edges, remove them and let cool. Remove the roasted skin from the chiles.

Feed all sauce ingredients into food processor and process until you have a chunky-smooth sauce. You will probably have sauce left over, and it's great on chips, tacos, etc...

Enchilada Filling

This can be whatever you want, even just plain chicken. I'm posting what I used most recently.

3 c. cooked chicken, pulled apart
1 c. cooked chorizo
3 green onions, diced
3/4 lb. melty white cheese, shredded + 1/4 c. for topping
1/2 c. sour cream
chicken broth to make the filling moist and mixable, if needed
salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 350. Combine filling ingredients. Heat 15-18 corn tortillas in a small amount of oil until they soften. Grease a large, flat baking pan, and then spread a layer of salsa verde on the bottom. Place a reasonable amount of filling on a tortilla, roll it up (don't bother tucking the ends in), and place it seam-down in the pan. Pack the tortillas into the pan (this recipe made enough enchiladas to fill my pan, which holds 15 tortillas, plus some extra). Smother with salsa verde and sprinkle with cheese. Bake for 25-30 minutes until they are heated through and the cheese is bubbly and browned.

Note: I don't bother with the tortilla-dipping step for this recipe--since this is a moist filling, I don't think it needs it. If you are using only plain meat or meat+onions for the filling, you will want to dip the tortillas before rolling them up.

Serve with more salsa verde, because it's so damn good!

Cottage Cheese Pancakes

2010-11-07T14:37:00.002-05:00

These are delicious and a nice break from flour-based pancakes. I have noticed a nice assortment of organic and high-quality brands of cottage cheese at the coop, and had sort of forgotten about keeping it on hand. A couple spoonfuls are a great pick-me-up in the afternoon or before dinner is ready.

This recipe was found on the internet, with a few adjustments, but this is how I did it:

1 cup oatmeal*
1 cup cottage cheese
4 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp cinnamon

*I ran the oatmeal through the food processor first to break it down a little - if you have the quick-cooking variety you shouldn't have to do this first.

Put all ingredients into food processor, blast a few times, and set aside. It will get thicker from standing.

On a medium hot non-stick or lightly oiled griddle, make silver dollar-size pancakes; turn when slightly bubbly. Cook a little longer on side two.

Serve with your favorite topping. I used cooked apples (baked ahead of time with a wee bit of sugar and cinnamon). They are a lot more filling than they look!

Turnips (or Cauliflower) with Parsley

2010-10-10T23:11:00.004-04:00

I originally got this recipe for 'navets persilles' from the Julie/Julia project. In the original the turnips are par-boiled and then cooked again for 30 minutes. I don't usually blanch the turnips before boiling them, and I find they usually cook in less time (especially if they are fresh from the garden and not the hardened, wax-coated things you find in the store). Nowadays I make this more frequently with cauliflower than turnips, though I think any dense vegetable would work. Parsnips, celeriac, carrots, etc... It's so simple it barely calls for a recipe.

3-4 c. of a dense root vegetable or cauliflower, in chunks
salted, boiling water
3-4 Tbsp. butter
lemon juice
chopped parsley
freshly ground black pepper
Aleppo pepper flakes or paprika (optional)

Boil the vegetables in well-salted water until tender. Toss with the remaining ingredients. Be careful with the lemon juice, so you don't add too much--usually one half of a lemon, gently squeezed, is enough.

Cilantro Chutney

2010-10-10T15:59:00.006-04:00

You know what they say about the importance of food presentation...wait, what is it they say?

This zingy green sauce is often served with Afghani food. It's sort of a Central Asian version of pesto, though it does not contain oil. It's easy to make and keeps well. It's great on grilled meat, or anything really. You will need a blender or food processor.

1 large bunch cilantro or 2 smaller bunches
1 jalapeno pepper, seeds removed
3 garlic cloves
4 walnuts
1 c. white vinegar
1 Tbsp. salt
1-2 Tbsp. sugar, to taste

Chop the cliantro, hot pepper, garlic, and wanuts in a food processor, until very fine. Add vinegar, salt, and sugar to taste. Alternately, combine all ingredients in a blender at once and blend until fine. Makes a watery chutney that tastes best after it sits for a couple of hours. Store in a tightly closed container in the fridge--should last for several weeks.

You can add some lemon or lime juice, but do not substitute it entirely for the vinegar, which gives an important sharp flavor to the sauce. The spiciness can be scaled up or down, depending on the type of peppers used and how many of them you include.

Pho Ga (Vietnamese Chicken Soup)

2010-08-18T21:57:00.002-04:00

Not a quick weeknight meal, but well worth it in the end!

If you've ever ordered pho ga at a restaurant, you've probably found it to be an under-flavored, pale shadow of the classic pho bo (beef). Instead, try making it at home, where you can crank up the flavor and have as much garnish as you want! This is especially good if you are cooking for a crowd. There's a lot of prep, but it's worth it in the end. I recommend using a pressure cooker to speed up the process.

Broth:

1 whole chicken
(optional: add extra chicken backs, feet, or necks for more flavor)
2 2-3" cinnamon sticks (ideally Vietnamese cassia type)
6 pieces star anise
2-3 onions (save 1/2 for the garnish)
4" piece of ginger
6 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
6 whole cloves, separated and slightly crushed
4 Tbsp. fish sauce, divided
2 Tbsp. brown sugar
ground black pepper
salt

Slice the onion into halves and do the same to the ginger root. Place them in the bottom of your stockpot, with no oil. Bring the heat to medium to roast the ginger and onion so they start to turn almost black in places. Meanwhile, roast the cinnamon, anise, cloves, and peppercorns in a small dry pan until they begin to release their aroma--but don't let them burn! Add the chicken, garlic, and roasted spices to the stock pot and cover with cold water. Add 2 Tbsp. of the fish sauce and the brown sugar. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer for 1.5-2 hrs, or pressure cook for 35 minutes.

Drain the stock off, set the chicken aside to cool, and throw away the used seasonings. Before serving, heat the stock back up to a low boil. Add the remaining fish sauce, some ground black pepper, and adjust the flavor with salt. Make the broth a little stronger than you'd like, since the noodles will need a lot of flavor.

If you are going to serve it all immediately, add in some green onion and cilantro from the garnish (see below). If you are going to freeze some of the stock for later use, do that before adding the fresh herbs.

Serving:

Use whichever fresh ingredients you like. The top items in the list are the most essential.

rice stick noodles (ban pho)
red onion, thinly sliced
green onion, sliced
cilantro, stems removed
mung bean sprouts
Thai basil
jalapeno slices
mint
culantro
Sriracha sauce
Hoisin sauce
fish sauce

When cool enough to handle, remove the chicken from the bone and shred it with your fingers.

Cook the noodles in plenty of boiling water for ~5 minutes, until al dente. Drain off the hot water, then add cold water (you may need to repeat the draining and filling) until the noodles are cool enough to handle. Pinch up a scoop of noodles between your thumb and forefinger, and wrap the noodles around your fingers to form a birdsnest shape a little smaller than your fist. Place the noodle bundle in a colander to drain. This way, when the noodles cool down and stick together, they will be in serving-sized bundles instead of a big congealed mess.

Place into each bowl a noodle bundle, sliced onion, green onion, cilantro, and chicken. Add plenty of broth (the noodles will absorb some). Garnish with beansprouts, additional herbs, and sauces until desired flavor is reached. Enjoy!

Buttermilk Pie with Raspberry Topping

2010-08-13T20:08:00.005-04:00

I baked this at the same time as a loaf of zucchini bread because they both used buttermilk and because if you're heating up the kitchen to bake one thing you may as well go on a baking spree. Buttermilk pie is a traditional Southern dish, basically a custard pie, and it's ideal for when the larder is bare. Since it's the height of summer I decided to add in some seasonal fruit, but this is a perfectly respectable pie without the berries. This pie is literally simple as pie, and there's no fiddly top crust to deal with. I got the basic recipe from the NPR website.

Preheat oven to 350

1 unbaked pie shell
4 eggs
1 c. sugar
1/2 c. melted butter
1 1/2 c. buttermilk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
lemon zest (my addition)

Blend together the ingredients, but not so much that they start to foam. Pour the mixture into the unbaked pie shell. Cover the crust with foil so it doesn't burn. Bake for 1 hour, or until a knife comes out clean. The pie will puff up a bit, and the surface should be golden brown. It will fall as it cools. If you are topping it with raspberries, let it cool some, but it doesn't need to be fully cold if you are in a hurry.

1 pint raspberries
3/4 c. sugar
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1/4 c. cold water + 2 tbsp corn starch

Rinse the raspberries. Place in a saucepan with the sugar and lemon juice. Mash with a potato masher and bring to a gentle simmer. Whisk in the cornstarch slurry and bring back to a simmer for 5 minutes. Spread across the pie. Cool for at least an hour before slicing.

NOTES: the topped pie and the plain pie are very different experiences. The plain pie is a subtle, but creamy and satisfying affair, perfect with some strong coffee. The fruit topped pie will be more dominated by the fruit flavor, but equally delightful. What I like about the buttermilk base is that it isn't as heavy as a plain custard or cream filling.

Zucchini Bread

2010-08-13T19:56:00.006-04:00

How can we have so many recipes, and yet not have a family zucchini bread recipe? Part of the reason may be that it's a fairly modern phenomenon--I can't find a recipe for it in any of our older cookbooks. Another possibility is that the version in The Melting Pot is made entirely with whole wheat flour and honey instead of sugar--yuck! Another reason is that Aunt Etties recipe was ~90% nuts, which is also yuck in my book. Whatever the reason we don't have one yet, here's a good recipe that is unapologetically full of refined carbohydrates:

Preheat oven to 350

1 1/2 c. flour
~2-3 c. grated zucchini (one 12" zuke)
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. baking flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. garam masala

2 eggs
3/4 c. sugar
1/2 c. buttermilk
1/4 c. oil
1 tsp. vanilla

Sprinkle the zucchini with the salt and place it in a colander in the sink. Sift together the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Blend the wet ingredients together in a quart measuring cup. Squeeze the zucchini out very thoroughly. Mix the zucchini into the dry ingredients, tossing it so that it is well distributed and coated with flour. Pour in the wet ingredients and mix together so the batter is just blended.

Pour into a greased loaf pan and bake for 45 minutes, until the top is golden brown and a knife comes out mostly clean. Allow to rest as long as possible. Ideally, let the loaf cool and then wrap in plastic wrap overnight before cutting.

You may notice I haven't included nuts. That's because they are gross. You can get crazy and add nuts, reduce the sugar, use hippie flour, but I am not responsible for the results.

Potato Croquettes

2010-07-30T13:06:00.003-04:00

OK actually I call these potato patties (which might get confused with latkes), but you can be more lah-dee-dah and call this form of Operation Icebox 'croquettes'. It's really just a way to use leftover mashed potatoes.

Ingredients:

leftover mashed potatoes
chives or green onions, minced
bacon bits (optional)
spices, salt & pepper
cheese?
fat for frying

Combine the mashed potatoes together with whatever ingredients and seasonings you like. You can probably add cheese, but I don't because it makes a mess when frying.

Pan-fry the patties in fat until golden brown on each side. I use a nonstick pan and a shallow layer of fat, but you can go the whole 9 yards and deep-fry them if you like.

Your humble leftovers have now reached food Nirvana. Enjoy!

Swedish Meatballs

2010-07-23T01:28:00.005-04:00

Herd tu feegoore-a oooot hoo I nefer treeed mekeeng thees clesseec Meennesuta deesh beffure-a. It ceme-a oooot greet! Börk, börk, börk!

Ahem....what I mean to say is that this is delicious, especially served over mashed potatoes with lingonberries or cranberries and pickles on the side. It's a fair amount of work, but very worth it in the end. Veal mixed with beef will give the best texture--the velvetiness of the veal combined with the heartiness of the beef. If that's not an option, use pork instead. For two people, halve the recipe or freeze some of the meat for later.

1 lb ground veal (or pork)
1 lb ground beef
1 medium onion
2 slices of white bread, crusts removed
~3 Tbsp. milk
2 egg yolks
2 Tbsp. salt
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. paprika
1/4 tsp. allspice
pinch of nutmeg
copious butter and oil for frying

This goes best with a food processor. Chop the onions until very fine, almost puree. Mix in the meat and egg. Grind the white bread into breadcrumbs and mix it with the milk until just moistened, and allow to sit for a few minutes. Combine the meat and onion mixture with the spices and bread mush. I like to cook up a tiny bit at this point to test the seasoning.

Form the meat into tiny little meatballs (3/4" diameter) and place on a tray.

Heat the fat in a heavy-bottomed pot. I like to use mostly butter with a little oil in it to keep from scorching. Use a generous amount to keep the balls from sticking. Fry the meatballs in single layer, turning them so they brown evenly, removing with a slotted spoon when done. This will take more than one batch (~4 batches in a Dutch oven for a full recipe).

3 Tbsp. flour
1 c. low-sodium chicken broth
1 c. low-sodium beef broth
dash of dry sherry
1/2 c. heavy cream
2 Tbsp. lingonberry/cranberry sauce or some sugar
salt to taste

Once the meatballs are cooked and removed from the pan, make sure there is several Tbsp. of fat left (or add more butter), and whisk in the flour. Allow it to bubble and brown for a couple of minutes, taking care not to scorch. Add in the broth and sherry (amounts are approximate--gauge based on how many meatballs you have). Simmer until the sauce thickens. If it does not thicken enough, stir in some mashed potatoes or a starch slurry. Remove from heat and stir in the cream. Adjust the flavor with the berry sauce or sugar, salt, and and possibly a dash of pickle juice.

Thai Spicy Ground Beef Salad (aka Laab)

2010-07-07T22:59:00.004-04:00

Here's another similar summer meat salad recipe, though this one has a roasty flavor from the toasted rice flour and dried chilies. You will wind up with enough rice flour to make this at least twice. You need a blender or food processor.

I got the recipe from Thai Food Tonight, which has many good recipes and helpful videos. http://www.thaifoodtonight.com/thaifoodtonight/recipes-YOUTUBESpicyGroundBeef.htm

2 lb. lean ground meat: beef, pork, chicken, turkey, whatever
1 1/2 c. water
1/2 c. white rice, any kind
10-15 whole dried red chili peppers
1/2 cabbage: green, red, or savoyed (or leaf lettuce)
4 green onions, sliced thin
1/4 red onion, minced
1/4 c. fish sauce
1-2 limes, juiced
1 small bunch cilantro, washed and chopped
3-4 sprigs of fresh mint, washed and chopped (optional)

Roast the rice in a pan until it is dark brown (but not burnt). Allow it to cool. Grind it in a blender or food processor until it is the consistency of sand.

Roast the whole red chilis until they are dark but not burnt. Grind them up using the blender/food processor, or chop by hand using a knife. They should be the size of the flakes you find at pizza restaurants.

Put the water in a large wok or deep frying pan. Bring it to a boil. Add the meat and cook until the meat is no longer pink. Drain off any excess water and fat. Remove the pan from heat (no more cooking after this).

Add 2 Tbsp. of the roasted rice flour, the green and red onions, the fish sauce, the lime juice, and the cilantro and mint. Add the roasted chili flakes until the dish is at your desired spiciness level (it should be hot!). Serve warm or room temperature, with raw cabbage leaves or lettuce to use as scoops.

Tasty with sticky rice and radish salad.

NOTE: Ultimately the roasted rice flour is optional, and this is still good without it. It gives it a nice complex flavor, though, and absorbs any fat from the meat that would make the salad gross at room temp.

Hmong Chicken Salad

2010-07-07T22:14:00.004-04:00

Clockwise from the left: young coconut juice, rice, chicken (actually turkey) salad, ripe papaya, papaya salad.

Holy blazes I'm posting a recipe! Almost hard to call this one, it's so easy. However, it's a valuable use for leftover chicken or turkey, and it's served cold or room temp, so it beats the heat.

2-3 c. leftover cooked chicken, shredded
1 handful beansprouts
4-6 green onions, sliced
1 large handful cilantro or culantro, sliced
1-3 hot chilies, sliced
juice of 1-2 limes, depending on size
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1-2 tsp. salt
~1 tsp sugar

I like to heat up the chicken a little so that the salad is warm, but you can make it cold if you like. In the picture I didn't have beansprouts, and it was still delicious. Just mix all the ingredients together and adjust the salt and sugar. If it isn't moist enough, add a little broth or water. It should be salty and zingy with a dominant cilantro flavor.

Dry rubbed grilled ribs

2010-07-03T20:01:00.004-04:00

I thought I'd just post some outlines of how I like to do pork (spare)ribs. They take a lot of time to do right, but they turn out really well. I do the rub from memory more or less every time, but I find that certain things, like szechuan pepper, really add to it nicely.

Alex's Dry Rub:
1/2 c. brown sugar
1-2 Tbsp. Szechuan peppercorn, smooshed a bit in mortar and pestle
1 Tbsp. chili powder
1 Tbsp. paprika
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
1 Tbsp.+ salt
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. ground mustard
1/2 tsp. white pepper (I haven't tried this yet since I forgot, but it's probably a good addition)
1/4-1/2 tsp. cayanne pepper

Mix everything together, then coat the outside of the ribs. Let sit overnight wrapped in plastic wrap (unless you have a container large enough to hold a whole rack of ribs.

Cooking the Ribs:
So I know there are a lot of ways to cook the ribs, but the way I prefer is to just put them on the grill at a pretty low temperature for about 2-4 hours (the longer, the flakier the meat will be). It helps that my house has a fancy gas grill with a thermometer, so I can keep things pretty controlled. I just put the ribs straight on the grill, no tin foil, and I try to keep the temperature on the thermometer on the front of the grill between 250-300 degrees. I think you could probably replicate this in the oven, but if you're using coals I think you'll probably want to do some fancy stuff to make the heat more indirect.

It takes a long time, but it really doesn't need much attention - I turn the ribs every half an hour or so. The important thing is making sure to get everything started in time for the party.

Crumpets!

2010-07-03T19:09:00.011-04:00

I've always been a big fan of crumpets, and so I spent a few days looking around online for recipes. Someone else appears to have done the same, and this recipe is based on hers but is hopefully a bit clearer. It might be worth noting that I also halved her recipe.

Due to the need for risings, etc, I'm not sure if this is a great breakfast recipe or not. Maybe you could make it the evening before, and then refrigerate the dough, but I think the best approach is to make them whenever and toast them later.

First, and most importantly, you'll need something to cook the crumpets in - a circular cookie cutter is good. I've heard tuna cans suggested, but every can I've seen of that size has a special bottom that is made for better stacking but which you can't cut off. It's better to get something a bit larger, like a can for crushed pineapple, etc. I recommend having at least two.

Ingredients:
2 c. flour
1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. sugar
1 c. room temp milk (30 seconds in a microwave or so ought to do it)
1/2 tsp. yeast

1 tsp. warm water + 1/8 tsp. baking soda

More water

Steps:
1. Make sure the milk is not too warm if you heated it, then add the sugar and yeast. You can wait for it to proof just to be sure. Mix the flour and salt, then combine. Whisk for a few minutes, then cover and place in a warm place.

2. Let rise until doubled, then whisk for a little bit to release the CO2, then add the water-baking soda mix, and let rise again.

3. When doubled again, or thereabouts (a full second rise probably isn't absolutely necessary), start warming the pan you plan to cook them in. I found that I had to keep the heat pretty low, so as not to burn the bottoms. I also had one of my nifty silicone brushes in a small glass with some oil to help grease things. Start adding water and whisking vigorously until the batter reaches the consistency of a thin, smooth pancake batter. You need the batter to spread out once you put it in the pan, and you might have to test the batter in the pan to make sure it's the right consistency.

4. Place the cookie cutters on the pan, and use something to grease them. Put a SMALL quantity of batter in each one - if you put in too much, you'll get English muffins. I think the ideal quantity is around 2 Tbsp or so.

5. When cooking the muffins, you have to wait until the tops are totally cooked - if you flip them too early, you'll end up smooshing out the all important holes and reduce the butter holding capacity of the crumpet. You'll be able to tell when the top is done cooking by the color. Also, hold in mind that this means the bottom will be cooking for a while - make sure it's not burning, but it's good for the bottom of the crumpet to be nicely crispy.

This crumpet needs to cook a bit longer.

Now it's ready to be flipped.

6. When the crumpet has produced all the holes it can make, remove the mold and flip and brown the top briefly.

Enjoy with plenty of butter and jam. Makes 10-20 depending on the size of your molds, etc.

And here they all are:

Man Meat

2010-05-25T23:11:00.003-04:00

I call this man meat because it uses ingredients that even the most consummate bachelor would have. Also, I think my step-dad John, who recently passed away, used to make it a lot, and he was truly a man's man. I hope you're taking notes, because it's pretty complex:

1 tri-tip steak
1 bottle or can of beer
Lawry's Seasoned Salt

Apply the seasoned salt liberally to the meat. Place the meat in a container, such as a zip-lock bag. Add the beer. Wait overnight. Grill the meat to desired done-ness. Eat.

Now if you're a pansy, you can get all fancy and overthink the recipe. What beer should I use? What if I don't have tri-tip? What if I have no balls? A real man would figure it out.

Roman Soup

2010-04-19T15:42:00.003-04:00

I was shocked to see I hadn't posted this soup, which is one of my stand-by favorites. It's similar to 'Italian Wedding Soup', but I leave out the pasta and I call it Roman because it contains ingredients that the Romans would have had before contact with the Americas.

A big batch of meat broth, ~6-8 cups
A pound of ground meat, I like to combine turkey and beef
1 large onion
1 clove garlic
Fresh parsley, ~1/2 c. chopped finely
2 cups blanched kale, chopped (or other greens: see below)
Salt and pepper
A dash of white wine vinegar

Grind 1/2 of the onion and the garlic in a food processor or chop it very finely--almost pureed. Combine it with the meat and parsley and form into tiny meatballs. Bring the broth to a boil and drop the meatballs in, gently making sure they don't stick to the bottom. When they rise to the top, cover the pot and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the onions, kale, and seasonings and simmer 5 more minutes. Go heavy on the black pepper--the Romans loved that stuff.

You can spice this more if you like, but I like to keep it simple. Don't add the kale raw or it will make the soup too bitter. You can use any other greens that you like, and the more tender ones won't need to be blanched. I like escarole or kommatsuna for this soup too.

Chicken Congee

2010-04-15T15:21:00.005-04:00

Congee is rice porridge, and is the Asian equivalent to chicken soup as a home-made remedy. It's easy to digest, versatile, and comforting. You can put virtually anything in it, but usually it contains some aromatics (ginger, green onions, celery), a small amount of protein (chicken, shrimp), some seasonings (white pepper, sesame oil, soy sauce), and a LOT of water or broth. You can also add green vegetables. I find most recipes include ginger at the very least. This recipe is great when you're feeling under the weather.

This isn't my picture, but this is what it looks like (with more green flecks from the celery).

My rice cooker has a setting for congee, but it can easily be made on the stove. You can start with raw or cooked rice, with the latter being much faster. The consistency is a matter of preference and depends on how much liquid you add (you can always thin it out more, so start thick).

1 c. raw rice or 2 c. cooked
~8 c. water
2 chicken wings and/or 1/2 c. raw chicken, cubed
1/2 c. Chinese (or regular) celery, chopped
1 thumb-sized knob ginger, peeled and sliced thin
1/4 c. goji berries (optional)
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. white pepper
1 dash fish sauce
1 tsp. sesame oil
1 dash light soy sauce
2 green onions, sliced thin

Place the rice, water, chicken, celery, ginger, goji berries, salt, white pepper, and fish sauce in a heavy-bottomed pot on the stove. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer, stirring frequently, until the rice is broken down and the porridge is the consistency of thin oatmeal. If it seems too thick while cooking, add more water. I'm not sure how long this takes since I use my rice cooker, but it should be about 1 hr for raw rice, 30-40 minutes for cooked rice.

When the congee is finished, stir in the sesame oil, soy sauce, and green onions. Salt to taste. Serve as-is, or garnish with crispy fried shallots, chili garlic sauce, or whatever you like.

There are probably as many congee recipes out there as people in China, so look around for more recipes if you like it. They can be as simple as rice+water, or be complex main-dishes with many ingredients.

Note: I bought the goji berries on a whim (they are pretty cheap) and it turns out they are very nutritious and add a nice color to congee. They don't have much flavor when cooked, so don't worry if you don't have any (and don't substitute them with cranberries!).

Wheat-tacular no-knead bread

2010-04-06T18:42:00.004-04:00

This was an experiment I did last night to try to make a somewhat crunchier version of no-knead bread using ingredients I already had in the cupboard. It wasn't as crunchy as I'd thought it would be, but it was amazingly delicious. I was going to call it "multi-grain" but since almost everything in it is based on wheat (except the oats) it's really "multi-permutations-of-the-same-grain." But mostly importantly, it's delicious.

Ingredients:
1/2 c. whole wheat flour
1/4 c. oats
1/4 c. bulgur
1/4 c. shelled wheat/wheat berries
2.25 c. white flour
2 tsp. salt (this is really important for the taste)
1/4 tsp. yeast

1.75 c. water (the grains in here can be quite thirsty)

Steps:
Night before:
Mix everything together (dry ingredients first, then the water), cover with plastic.

Day of:
Heavily flour a cutting board, then use a floured spatula to get the muck out onto a cutting board. Flour the top of the blob, then flatten it a bit. Fold each edge into the center (left,right,top,bottom) adding more flour if/when necessary to keep the dough from sticking to everything it touches. Let rest 5 minutes if you're into that kind of thing (I forgot this step, and it turned out fine).

Coat a cotton, non-terrycloth kitchen towel in something that the bread won't stick to - I recommend corn meal, since I have had better results with that than with flour. Flour your hands well, and quickly shape the dough into a ball, then place the ball seam down on the towel. Put the towel+dough into a bowl to rise.

In 1.5-2 hours, or after the dough has approximately doubled, preheat the oven to 475. Put a dutch oven with a lid (or a similar heavy lidded oven friendly container) in when you turn it on, so that it gets preheated with the oven. When it's the right temperature, scoop the bread from the bottom and invert it into the vessel, so the seam side is on top.

Bake for about 30 minutes covered, then reduce temperature to 425 (I didn't do this, but many recipes suggest it) and cook uncovered until the crust is browned to your liking.

Remove, cool, and enjoy.

The loaf resting:

The all important crumb shot:

Tasso ham

2010-04-06T03:21:00.002-04:00

While we're dry-rubbing-and-grilling...

I got this recipe from the chef at la Grassa, and used it for the Tasso ham sandwiches we sold at the Summit IRA release party. This is an easy one to keep in the memory bank for when you to need to pack a wallop of flavor, cajun style.

1) Obtain fresh ham or other whole cut of pork (despite being a recipe for ham, shoulder is actually ideal due to superior marbling.) Cut the meat against the grain into long, thin strips.

2) Bury the strips of meat in a cure of 1 part salt: 2 parts sugar. Ensure the meat is covered on all sides. Allow it to cure for no more than 8 hours; this is intended to be a quick cure.

3) Rinse the cure off the meat and pat it dry. Make the dry rub:

2 parts white pepper
1 part ground chile
1 part marjoram (thyme or oregano work equally well here)
1 part ground allspice

Cover the meat in the rub. Grill, slow roast, or, ideally, hot-smoke the meat. Make sandwiches, soup, etc.

Montreal Steak Rub

2010-04-05T22:19:00.003-04:00

Grilling season has arrived! Here's a simple and popular rub that has delicious results. Sure, you can just buy the seasoning mix, but when you have a spice cabinet that can't fit one more jar, it's better to just make your own mixtures. Most of the recipes I've seen online called for dill weed, but I used dill seed, which probably has more flavor anyway. No measurements...just use The Force.

Kosher salt
black pepper
garlic powder
paprika
ground coriander
dill seed (or weed)
red pepper flakes

Pat steaks dry. Sprinkle with rub. Wrap steaks tightly in plastic wrap and allow to season for at least 1 hr. Grill or pan fry on medium high heat until cooked to your liking. These would be great with the fingerling potato recipe below.

Finger potatoes cooked in butter with garlic

2010-04-03T22:08:00.004-04:00

This is obviously just a very simple way to cook finger potatoes, but I wasn't sure if it would work, and it did, so I figured I'd post it.

1 # or so finger potatoes, washed well
2 Tbsp butter (or more!)
~1 Tbsp salt
3-4 Peeled whole cloves of garlic
Pepper to taste
Optional but delicious:
Turnips, cut into similar sized chunks as the potatoes

Heat oven to 375. Combine everything in a baking vessel (I used a casserole pan), cover, and place in the oven. Every once in a while, you should shake the pan so that everything gets nicely coated in butter. Bake around 30-40 minutes - you want to err on the side of more cooked, since finger potatoes are better when they melt in your mouth and the skins get nice and crispy.

Serving Suggestion:

Summertime

2010-04-01T23:25:00.002-04:00

And the living is easy

Easy rice cooker sausage and greens on rice

2010-03-29T19:27:00.004-04:00

This is a really easy way to whip up some dinner after a long day. The main weird ingredient you'll need is Chinese sausage. Here's a picture of one brand and a picture of the actual sausage in a package. Chinese sausage is one of the meats that I like to keep around since it keeps for a long time and you don't have to worry about it going bad too quickly - it also adds sweet/savory flavor to meals. You can also throw some diced garlic into this, but I don't think it's necessary.

You'll need:
1-2 Chinese sausages
5-10 leaves of a hardy green (Mustard, kommatsuna, etc)
1.5-2 c. rice
2x as much water as rice

Cut sausages into small (1/2-1" circles), then chop the greens into smaller pieces. Put rice and water in the rice cooker, then throw in sausages and then greens. Turn on rice cooker, wait 20 minutes and then eat. I recommend adding some soy sauce, hoisin sauce and sriracha.

Squash with Marmalade

2010-03-22T22:11:00.003-04:00

This recipe was on a sticker on the cute mini-acorn squashes I got today at the store, and turned out really well (especially since I was using Melanie's homemade marmalade):

Cook acorn squash according to standard operating procedures (cut in half, remove seeds, put face down on cookie sheet in 400 degree oven for around 30 minutes until very soft when poked with a fork)

Flip the squashes so that the inside is facing up. Put a dollop of orange marmalade and a dollop of butter in the center of each half squash. Place under broiler on high until somewhat browned.

Enjoy!

Chocolate Bread (Pane al Cioccolato)

2010-03-19T14:38:00.004-04:00

I remember getting this bread, or something like it, at Turtle Bread. It was absolutely fabulously delicious, especially when schmeared with mascarpone. The recipes (here and here) I derived this from are pretty complex, and give the measurements in weight and traditional cups/tbsps. I prefer the latter, so that's what I'll use primarily. If you want weights, feel free to look at those links.

The Night Before:
You need to mix "biga naturales" which are a form of starter. I think they recipe would be fine without this, but you might want to increase the yeast later:

1/4c. flour
1/8c. water
pinch of yeast

Mix, and then let sit covered at least 8 hours (or overnight).

Day Of:

Biga Naturales, cut into small pieces
3 c. flour
1 1/8c. water
1/4 c. honey
1 Tbsp. vanilla
1/4 c. cocoa powder
1/2 tsp. yeast
1 Tbsp salt

1/4-1/2 c. chocolate chips

Mix all ingredients, then knead for 5-8 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes. Knead in chocolate chips.

Let rest until doubled in covered lightly oiled bowl (around 2 hours).

Divide into as many loaves as you want (this makes 3 smallish loaves, or 2 medium loaves). Shape into spheres, let rest 20 minutes, then shape into the final shape. Score with 2-3 slashes.

Let rest until around twice the original size (the original recipe said 3 hours, but I don't have that kind of patience.)

Place a stout pan in the bottom of the oven with ~1c. water, and preheat to 400 degrees. The recipes online say it should take 20 + 20 minutes with a rotation, but I found it only took about 12 + 12 minutes, so just use your instincts.

Let rest at least 1 hour. Eat (I don't foresee this step being a problem)

I only made this once, so anyone who wants to post modifications is quite welcome.

Hamburgers

2010-03-18T22:49:00.004-04:00

This is not a definitive recipe or anything, but it almost always turns out excellently, and so I thought it might be useful to readers of the blog/family members as a good burger recipe. Using a lot of fresh onion in meat is a trick from Lillian.

1# Ground beef (if you use leaner beef, you it won't flame up as much, but it might not be quite as tasty)
1/2 onion (you can mix white and red onion for extra deliciousness)
2-3 cloves garlic
1 egg
1/4c. or so breadcrumbs
Several dashes of Worcester Sauce
1 Tbsp Pomegranate Molasses (Dibis rumaan) (optional)
S&P

Run the onion and garlic through the food processor, or mince very finely. Mix everything together. The role of the breadcrumbs is to reduce the moisture of the burgers so that they're workable, so you'll have to add more or less depending on the size of the egg, the moistness of the meat, etc.

When everything is mixed, form into patties - Lillian recommends putting an indentation in the center, which will "pop up" when they're ready. I mostly judge the doneness by the size of the burger (they shrink quite a bit). The onions in burgers will keep them more moist than they would be otherwise, so there's less danger of overcooking them.

Crazy Easy Fudgey Brownies

2010-03-13T17:13:00.003-05:00

Made these for cards night and covered them in melted chocolate. The melted chocolate part didn't go 100% right so I won't post that part. The brownies themselves are delish, though. This is the Hershey's fudgey brownie recipe.

1 4 oz. bar unsweetened baking chocolate
3/4 c. (1 1/2 sticks) butter
2 c. sugar
3 eggs
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 c. flour

Heat oven to 350. Grease a 13x9 or 8x8 brownie pan.

Gently melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler or in the microwave using short bursts at 50% power. When the chocolate and butter are melted and smooth, stir in the sugar, eggs, and vanilla. Add flour and stir until combined. Fold in chocolate chips or nuts, if desired.

Pour into pan and bake for ~35 minutes, until the center is just set and a knife.toothpick comes out of the middle almost clean (it will set up more as it cools, and it's supposed to be gooey anyway).

Soup. In 15 minutes.

2010-03-06T21:02:00.007-05:00

Tonight we decided to dine in. At the last minute. But, what kind of domestic goddess am I if I can't whip up something delicious with no warning? That's right. So, I bring you -

La Sopa des Frijoles Negras y Papas de Sabado

1 onion
1 large or 2 small potatoes
3 cloves garlic
3 cups chicken broth
1 can refried beans (preferably black beans)
1 can black beans
some pimentos or something similar, if available (for color)
1 cup frozen (or canned) corn
1 TBSP chili powder
1/4 tsp dried red chili flakes
2 TSP cumin
salt and pepper

Saute chopped onion with diced (tiny pieces) potato. Add chopped garlic and stir fry until golden. Do not let garlic burn. Add chicken broth and bring to boil; cook until potatoes are soft. Turn down to simmer, add spices and beans. Smoosh up the refried beans until they are evenly dispersed into the broth. Cook for a few minutes to blend flavors. Add corn and pimientos and cook until everything is heated and it tastes good.

Optional toppings: finely chopped onion, grated cheese, sour cream, small pieces of tortilla chips, often found at bottom of bag.

Dan Dan Noodles

2010-03-02T22:41:00.004-05:00

I think this recipe has every flavor your tongue can taste in it. Spicy chili oil, astringent and cooling Szechuan pepper, salty and bitter pickled greens, meaty pork, and just a hint of sweet and sour. Some of the ingredients may seem exotic, but many of them can be substituted with more common things. This recipe is easily scaled for however many people are eating and for individual tastes, as you add the seasoning to each bowl individually. I make lots of the pork topping and freeze it for later use, because the other items are in my cupboard all the time. It is based on this YouTUBE recipe.

Pork Mixture

1 lb. ground pork
1/2 c. Chinese pickled vegetable/cabbage
1/2 c. chopped bamboo shoots
salt

Brown the ground pork with a few pinches salt. Rinse the pickled vegetable and squeeze out the excess water. Chop finely. Add the vegetable and bamboo shoots and heat through. If you don't have the pickled vegetable (you can find it in a can at the Asian store), add finely chopped cabbage or mustard greens and extra salt. Bamboo shoots can be omitted.

Sauce

This recipe is for one bowl's worth. To scale up to more bowls, just add the same thing to each bowl, accommodating for the eater's taste.

1 bundle round noodles, typically wheat, though rice or yam would be good
1 c. hot chicken broth
2 Tbsp. light soy sauce
1 Tbsp. Chinese black vinegar or balsamic
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. black sesame paste or tahini mixed with 1 tsp. roasted sesame oil
1/2 tsp. ground Szechuan peppercorn
1 small clove garlic, crushed
dash of chili oil, to taste
sliced green onions for garnish

While boiling noodles, combine all sauce ingredients in each bowl. If you don't have black sesame paste or tahini, peanut butter can be substituted. Adjust proportions until the broth in each bowl has the desired flavor. When the noodles are cooked, drain them and scoop into each bowl. Top with a pile of the pork mixture and some fresh green onions. Enjoy!

Levantine Okra Soup البامية

2010-03-02T22:15:00.008-05:00

This is a recipe I really love primarily from the Levantine area of the Middle East. It includes what a friend once described as the "three basics" of Levantine spices: garlic, tomatoes, and cilantro (sometimes parsley). This obviously isn't in everything, but they make a meal out of near anything...

You can make this with either lamb or chicken. I happened to have some lamb broth, but after testing my squat PR, I didn't really feel like biking to the only place I know that sells lamb, so I used chicken.

This recipe is based on one from the "Arabic Cooking: Step by Step" cookbook I have (in Arabic).

Ingredients:
Lamb or chicken (for the lamb use rib meat if possible, cut into small pieces, and I used whole bone-in chicken - if you omit the meat, this is vegetarian friendly)
1 pound okra, detailed and cut into 1/4-1/2" slices (frozen is fine)
4-5 tomatoes, peeled and diced
1 small onion, minced
1/4-1/2 c. minced cilantro

2-3 cloves garlic, squished with salt
Juice of one lemon
1/2 tsp. Arabic spices
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
S&P

3-4 c. chicken or lamb broth (or water) (Unless you produce it as detailed below)

Preparation:
For lamb meat:
1. Brown the lamb in some oil or fat, then add some salt, and water to cover, then bring to a boil and simmer for two hours (or 45 minutes in a pressure cooker).

For chicken:
1. Boil chicken (I boiled it in the lamb broth) until cooked, then remove the meat from the bones.

2. Saute the onions until transparent, then add the tomatoes. When they start releasing their juices, add the okra, cilantro, garlic, lemon juice and spices, and cook for about 5 minutes.

3. Add broth (or the lamb juice) and meat to the pot (it should make a soupy-stew consistency), then cook until the okra is no longer woody, about 1/2 hour.

Serve on vermicelli rice and enjoy!

Eggs-in-a-Basket

2010-02-28T21:32:00.010-05:00

Note: Alex had titled this "Toad-in-the-Hole", which refers to another dish entirely. Discussion is in the comments.

This is a fun recipe (technique really) that I picked up from Melanie. She also calls it "Bullseyes" - it has a ton of names - Wikipedia lists it as "Eggs in the basket" among many, many others. You could do it with any kind of bread (a personal favorite is corn bread, then put some salsa on top). It's also quite popular with kids. One crazy variation I see online is to use waffles.

Instructional Pictures!

With ham and Swiss cheese melted on top in the toaster oven.

Ingredients:

Eggs

Bread (in slices)

S&P

Take some pieces of bread, butter both sides, and cut holes in the center (you can use a glass or cookie-cutter to do this). On medium-high heat, cook the bread for a minute or so, then crack an egg into the center. You can sprinkle on some salt and pepper at this point. When it looks cooked enough to flip, flip it, and cook as you like. Be careful not to singe the bread since the egg can take a while to cook.

If you like, you can also cook the parts of the bread you cut out. This is especially good with corn bread.

Mmmm....cookies!

2010-02-25T21:12:00.005-05:00

Betsy's Shortbread Bites
(from King Arthur Flour 200th Anniversary Cookbook)

These delicate cookies are tiny mouthfuls of melt-in-your-mouth shortbread. It is almost like making pastry, and not difficult at all. I saved half the dough in the fridge for later, which is my favorite way to make cookies. Not only do you have more for later (Surprise! What's in this Tupperware?) but they don't all get eaten on the first day.

2 cups all-purpose flour (I use spelt, but any old white flour will do)
1 cup (2 sticks) butter
1/4 cup sugar (really!)
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla
confectioner's sugar

Combine flour, sugar, butter, and salt with pastry blender or fingers. Add vanilla and mix with a fork. Cover dough and chill until firm or overnight. (2 hours is plenty)

Preheat oven to 350.

Roll small pieces of fough between palms of hands into tiny little balls about 1/2" in diameter and place on greased (or non-stick) cookie sheet. Bake for about 12 mins. or until golden.

Cool thoroughly on rack and shake them gently in a bag of powdered sugar. Make sure they are completely cool or the sugar won't stick - honest!

Best served on a cute little dish, like from your old tea party set.

Basic Thanksgiving Stuffing

2010-02-19T18:59:00.005-05:00

Wasn't sure if I should post this since it's so basic, but this is essentially the stuffing we have all known and loved. I made it last night for a crowd and it got great reviews. I put some extra work in to use fresh made turkey broth and meat bits, but if you are making this on Thanksgiving day you will probably have timing problems unless you trim the wings from the bird to make broth instead of roasting them. You can use pre-made broth and omit the meat. This is for making the stuffing from packaged bread cubes--it will need to be altered (less liquid, more spices) if you use fresh bread.

I doubled the stuffing to make enough for 8 people + leftovers (the broth is enough for a double recipe).

Broth:

2-4 turkey legs or wings
2 Tbsp. oil
8 c. water
2 carrots, in chunks
1 onion, washed, trimmed, and cut into quarters with skin on (skins make the broth golden)
2 ribs celery, in chunks
handful of parsley stems
2 bay leaves
4-5 allspice berries
1 tbsp. black peppercorns
2 tsp. thyme
2 tsp. sage
1 tsp dill seed (optional)

Heat the oil in a stock pot and fry the chicken pieces to get golden brown edges (for flavor). Add the water and remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer until the meat is tender or pressure cook for 20 minutes. Drain and reserve the stock. Remove the meat from the bones.

Stuffing:

Preaheat oven to 350 and butter a large casserole.

1 bag (14 0z.) Brownberry sage and onion stuffing cubes
3+ c. turkey broth
1 c. cooked turkey chunks
1 medium onion, diced
2 ribs celery, diced
3/4 stick butter
2 Tbsp. minced parsley

Cook the onion and celery in the butter until they are soft and the edges are golden brown. Pour the bread cubes into a very large bowl. Add the cooked celery and onions (including the butter from the pot), parsley, turkey bits, and broth and toss gently to combine. If you like a moister stuffing add more liquid. Bake for 20-30 minutes until it is hot and the edges reach the desired crispness.

Pakistani style Chana Dal

2010-01-28T21:46:00.006-05:00

I have (minimally) adapted this from here. It can be made either as more of a soup, or a stewy pasty thing to eat with rice (and might I suggest Lillian's cumin rice).If you're interested in more information on chana dal than you could ever have wanted, see here. This is supposed to use the "kabuli" style of chana dal, but I'm guessing you'll be lucky enough to find ANY form of chana dal, let alone have a choice between 'desi' and 'kabuli.'

Ingredients:
2 cups of Chana Dal
4 cups water
1 small onion (minced)
3 or so tomatoes, minced finely or pureed (I was pureeing tomatoes for palak paneer anyway)
1 tsp. of cumin seeds
1 tbsp. of fresh ginger (minced)
1 tbsp. of garlic (minced)
1/2 tsp. of turmeric powder
1 tbsp. of coriander Powder
1 tsp. of cayenne pepper (or more - this gave it a relatively mild spiciness). I also think it would be good with jalapenos)
Salt (to taste)
1 tbsp. of fresh lemon Juice or Fresh Lime Juice (I used lemon)

Preparation:
Either cook the dal in the water until tender (not sure how long that takes in a normal pan) or cook it in a pressure cooker for 15-20 minutes. If it looks way too thick, you can add more water, but remember that the tomatoes will thin it out quite a bit. Puree using an immersion blender or with some other implement of destruction. You don't need to puree completely - some people like to leave 1/3-1/2 of the daals intact, though the chana dal was a bit chalky in unsmooshed form.

In a small bit of oil, heat the cumin seeds until they crackle, then add the onion, ginger and garlic. Cook until onions are translucent, then add turmeric, coriander and cayenne. Stir for about twenty seconds, then add the tomatoes, and bring to a boil. Add to the dal, along with salt.

Reheat the dal tomato mixture, simmer for a couple of minutes, and then add lemon juice. Adjust for salt and spiciness (well, if it's too spicy, you're probably just SOL, but if it's not spicy enough you could add a bit more cayenne).

I would have taken a picture, but my poor camera is out of batteries.

French Bread

2010-01-18T12:06:00.004-05:00

This is not necessarily a definitive recipe - I just made it to good result the other night, and had to sort of distill a few recipes to do it. I'm not sure if I needed to cook it longer, but it wasn't quite as crisp as baguettes normally are - however, I liked it, and it was a little less harsh on the roof of my mouth.

Ingredients:
1 4oz package of dry yeast/2.25 tsp yeast from a jar
1/2 c. warm water

3.5 c. flour
2.25 tsp. salt
1.25 c. water

1 egg white.

1) Combine 1/2 c. warm water and yeast (I added just a little honey to keep the yeasties happy)

2) Mix flour and salt, then add yeast water and normal water, mix.

3) Knead until pliant. Let rise until tripled, or until you get sick of waiting and it's at least doubled.

4) Punch down, rise again until doubled.

5) Punch down, cut into three pieces (or as many pieces as you want loaves). Let rest 5 minutes.

6) Use a rolling pin to roll the pieces out into long thin rectangles, then roll them up to make long thin tubes. Pinch the seam and the ends, then place seam-side down on a baking sheet, either oiled or sprinkled with cornmeal. Make diagonal, 1/4" deep cuts along the length of the bread - I recommend making them so that they'll divide it into easily separated single pieces. Let rise until approximately doubled in size, then wash the outside with egg white. Bake at 450 for approximately 20 minutes or until the bread makes a hollow sound when tapped.

Beef in Cream Sauce with Leeks and Shallots

2010-01-17T21:04:00.005-05:00

Alternate name: Alex's not-quite-beef-stroganoff.

This dish started out as a creative way to use up some leeks that were on sale, and evolved into something more complicated since I wanted to make something fancy. It's very similar in some ways to beef stroganoff, but more subtly flavored and not quite as heavy.

Ingredients:
1 pound steak (I used top sirloin which was reasonably priced at about $5/#)

1 leek, cut in half then chopped into thin half circles
2 + 1 shallots (the first two should be larger), diced
5-7 mushrooms, sliced (optional)

2 Tbsp butter
1 1/2 Tbsp flour
1/3 c. heavy cream
1/2-1 c. milk
1/3 c. dry white wine

Salt and Pepper.

Preparation:
1) One hour before cooking, heavily salt both sides of the steak, then cover in plastic and place in refrigerator. After an hour has passed, wash off the steak. It will look a bit dried out - that's fine. Put as much as a tablespoon of pepper on each side.

2) Heat a heavy skillet to quite hot, then add a small amount of high heat tolerant oil, add shallots and cook for 30 seconds. Throw in steaks, sear and lightly brown the sides. Don't worry about the interior temperature too much - you can control how cooked the inside gets by choosing an appropriate time to add the steak to the sauce. Remove steak from pan, leaving shallots in pan. Leave the steak for 5 minutes or so, then slice into 1/4"-1/2" slices against the grain.

3) Add, 2 Tbsp butter, reducing heat to low, then sweat the leeks, adding the mushrooms once the leeks are fairly soft.

4) When mushrooms are soft, add flour, making a roux, then cook for an additional 5 minutes still on low.

5) Add wine to deglaze, then mix with the roux, then add the cream and mix everything well. It should be pretty thick at this point - add some milk. The amount of milk will vary based on how much flour you added, and so you can add enough to make it to your preferred consistency. You can add more wine, and more salt, but be sparing with additional pepper since the steak has a lot already.

6) Once the sauce has reduced somewhat, you can add the beef. Again, the idea is simply to cook the beef to the level you're comfortable without overcooking it and making it tough. Cook the sauce with the beef as long as you need to.

7) Serve on top of your carbohydrate of choice (I used fresh pasta from a local Italian deli), sprinkling with the last shallot before serving.

With fresh pasta and asparagus:

Hot Water Pastry Recipe

2009-12-13T21:05:00.004-05:00

Yeah, my pie pretty much owns.

Hot water pastry was mentioned in this Leftover Pot-Pie recipe. Inspired by a discussion about baking ratios and receiving some leftover turkey and stock from Thanksgiving, I decided to refine the crust recipe and write it out more explicitly. This crust is more suited to hot savory pies than a regular flaky pie crust, and the hot water technique is much faster than cutting in cold butter. It's traditionally made from lard, but you can use shortening with some butter mixed in. I added a couple of tablespoons of bacon grease for flavor.

1 lb. all-purpose flour
1/2 lb. (scant) fat
1 c. half water, half milk
1 tsp. salt

The ratios are essentially 2 flour: 1 fat: 1 liquid, with salt. This recipe makes 1 very large double-crust pie. The dough will be cooked first at 450 for 15 minutes and then, when filled, at 350 for 1 hour.

Combine the milk, water, and fat in a saucepan and bring just to a boil. Allow to sit until the fat is fully melted. In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt.

Pour the hot liquid into the flour and salt and stir thoroughly with a wooden spoon until all ingredients are fully combined. Knead on a floured board a few times. Keep the dough warm as you're working so that it stays pliable.

Divide the dough into two parts, one slightly larger than the other. Roll out the larger piece to the desired thickness on parchment paper or a thick layer of flour. Place in your baking dish. Fill the crust with your filling and roll out the top layer. Add the top crust layer and crimp the edges with your fingers or a fork.

Let's see that from another angle. Mmmm.....

Pierce the top crust a few times and decorate, if desired. Brush with a beaten egg. Bake at 450 for 15 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 350 and bake for 45 more minutes. Remove the pie and brush with egg again, and return the pie to the oven for 15 more minutes. If any parts begin to get too brown while baking, cover those parts with foil.

Allow the pie to rest 5 minutes before slicing.

Oh yeah, cut me a piece!

Tonkatsu aka How to make a frozen cutlet into a nice meal

2009-12-12T21:19:00.006-05:00

Technically tonkatsu is a breaded pork cutlet, but you can make chicken-katsu or veal-catsu or chickenmcnugget-katsu (as pictured). It's traditionally served as a full meal with rice, shredded cabbage, miso soup, and some pickles. The cutlet is generally sliced so that it can be eaten with chopsticks and dressed with Japanese-style Worcestershire sauce ('sosu').

I forgot to take a picture of rice, so don't forget to include it!

For the meal pictured I used salad with ginger vinaigrette instead of the cabbage. Here's how to put together the meal:

Make the Sosu:

1/2 c. catsup
1/4 c. Worcestershire sauce
1/4 c. rice wine
3 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. ginger, minced
1 Tbsp. garlic, minced

Combine all ingredients and simmer for 20 minutes.

Rice:

Make some short-grained white rice. Place in a bowl before serving.

Salad with Ginger Vinaigrette:

If making a salad, combine lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, red onions, and daikon. Dress with:

1/4 c. rice vinegar
3 Tbsp. salad oil
1 Tbsp. sesame oil
1 Tbsp. brown sugar
1 Tbsp. light soy sauce
1 green onion, minced
1 Tbsp. ginger, minced
1/2 tsp white pepper

Tonkatsu:

Bread and fry the cutlet any way you like, or just cook up some frozen ones. Slice into bite sized pieces before serving. You can top these with the sosu or leave it on the side. Here's a tonkatsu recipe if you're making it from scratch.

Miso Soup:

Make some miso soup. Add tofu and wakame seaweed if you like. Place into bowls and garnish with fresh green onions.

Cabbage:

Slice a couple handfuls of cabbage very thin (if using individual leaves, roll them up tightly before slicing). Soak in cold water for 5 minutes, then drain well.

* * *

Arrange all the components attractively, or heck just put them on a plate. Cut up some pickles (such as the daikon takuan pictured) and put them on the side. Dig in!

Brats and Kraut in the Slow-cooker

2009-12-08T23:48:00.004-05:00

This recipe isn't much different from Porky Kraut, but I thought I'd post it anyway, since it's a little faster (you don't have to cut up the meat) and more colorful, and it reminds us all to use our beloved slow-cookers.

~6 raw bratwurst
2 lbs. sauerkraut
1 large carrot
1 large turnip (optional)
1/4 c. white wine
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. thyme
1 tsp. white pepper
1 tsp. paprika
1/2 tsp. sugar
1 pinch cayenne
2 bay leaves
water

Brown the brats in a pan. Place them in the slow-cooker. Use some water or broth to deglaze the pan and add that to the cooker.

Drain and rinse the kraut. If you like it zingy, only rinse it a little. Add to the cooker.

Grate the carrot and turnip (if using) and add to the cooker.

Stir in the spices and wine and add water so that the contents are 3/4 submerged. Cook all day. Serve with mashed or roasted potatoes.

***

Feel free to experiment with the spices. I add a mix I got from Penzey's called Krakow Nights. You can go the caraway route if you like that kind of thing.

Not Just Pumpkin Pie

2009-12-06T23:07:00.003-05:00

This is a very simple variation on Pumpkin Pie, and it turns it into another fabulous Dessert for Breakfast item.

Preheat oven to 450. Using your favorite pumpkin pie recipe, substitute for the pumpkin a mixture of cooked yellow squash, sweet potatoes, and turnips. I increased the eggs by 2 as the mixture seemed a little watery.

I use Lillian's most fabulous pie crust recipe, which is around here somewhere I'm sure. Assemble pie and bake at 450 for 10 minutes, then at 350 for 45-50 minutes. It should be non-wiggly when you take it out. The surface will probably split when cooled. Mine made an interesting 4 pointed star shape. Delicious warm or cooled and a totally guilt-free snack or dessert.

Afghani Meat Sauce, Bulghur Pilaf with Spinach and Fried Onions, Yogurt Sauce

2009-11-16T22:27:00.006-05:00

This meal is hearty, chock-full-of-nutrients, and fairly quick. The meat recipe is one I picked up along the way and the bulghur recipe is from the Almost Turkish blog. The yogurt sauce on the side is optional but it adds a nice balance to the meat. If you want to make the recipes separately, the meat sauce can be served over rice or macaroni, and the bulghur would make a nice side to any meat dish. Feel free to get creative with spices on the meat sauce--I used a seasoning mix from Morocco last time I made it.

Afghani Meat Sauce

1 1/2 lb. ground lamb or beef
1 medium onion, diced
3 Tbsp. tomato paste
1/2-3/4 c. hot water
2 tsp. salt, or to taste
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. black pepper
1 pinch red pepper flakes
1 clove garlic, crushed
oil for cooking

If you have a pressure cooker, use it to cook the meat. If not, a regular frying pan with a lid will work.

Heat a little oil in the pan and add the meat. Break it up thoroughly while browning. Cook until excess moisture is gone. Add the onions and stir for 2-3 minutes. Add the spices and salt. Stir in the tomato paste so that it's completely distributed. Add enough water to keep the meat from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Pressure cook for 12 minutes, or simmer with the lid on for 20 minutes.

Add the crushed garlic and salt to taste and cook for 1-2 more minutes.

Yogurt Sauce

1/2 c. plain yogurt
1/4 c. water
1/2 tsp. salt
1 small clove garlic, crushed
1 tsp. dried mint
1/4 tsp. ground cumin
1 pinch cayenne

Combine all ingredients and let sit for 5 minutes.

Bulghur Pilaf with Spinach and Fried Onions

1 1/2 c. coarse bulghur
1 box frozen spinach, squeezed out well OR 1 large fresh bunch, washed and chopped
1 large onion, sliced thin
5 Tbsp. olive oil
2 c. broth
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. allspice

Begin by caramelizing the onions in a large frying pan in 3 Tbsp. of olive oil, with a pinch of salt. Be patient! Keep cooking the onions while you make the pilaf until they are sweet and golden brown.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large saucepan with a tight fitting lid. Add the spinach and fry in the oil for 3-4 minutes. Add the spices, salt, broth, and bulghur and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the pan to sit for 5 more minutes.

Chop the browned onions and add them to the pilaf.

Beef with Kaffir Lime Leaf

2009-11-04T22:40:00.004-05:00

This is one of those surprise recipes that emerged from what I had on hand and turned out both delicious and beautiful, much to my surprise. It's a hybrid of a few of my favorite Thai recipes. If you're able to find Kaffir lime leaf, you can keep it in the freezer and it still tastes great. In fact, many Asian groceries keep it in the freezer already. Thai basil is optional, but I had some on hand (if you leave it out, use more lime leaf).

1.5-2 lb. ground beef
4 cloves garlic, minced
2-3 hot Thai peppers, sliced
1/2 red bell pepper, diced (optional but pretty)
4-6 Kaffir lime leaves, julienned very finely
1 small handful Thai basil leaves, chopped (optional)
1tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. fish sauce
a couple of dollops of oyster sauce
4 green onions, cut into 1" pieces
oil for cooking

Brown the meat in a frying pan and break it up as finely as possible. (OR if you have a pressure cooker, cook it for 12 minutes--this makes it extra tender). Place a colander over a bowl and dump the meat into it, reserving the juices.

Add some oil or fat from the beef to the pan and heat it to medium-high. Add 3/4 of the garlic and chilies and fry them until they brown lightly, loosening any meat bits off the bottom of the pan.

Return the meat to the pan and add the salt, fish sauce, and oyster sauce, red peppers, and lime leaves, and stir over medium-high for 2-3 minutes. If there's not enough liquid, add back in some meat drippings.

Stir in the Thai basil and green onion and and remaining garlic, adding more oyster sauce if necessary to season. Cook for 1-2 more minutes. Serve over rice.

Lion's Head Meatball Soup

2009-10-30T11:49:00.003-04:00

This soup gets its name from the dubious observation that the meatballs look like a lion's face and the greens look like its mane. I don't see it, but it's a pretty badass name. It's also a pretty badass soup and easy to make. I based my recipe on this one at Melting Wok, which includes Spam in the meatballs. This is optional, but highly recommended, as it gives a nice texture and smoky flavor. You can use various greens in the soup. Napa cabbage is traditional, but you can also use mustard greens or baby bok choy.

Meatballs:
1 lb. lean ground pork
1 can Spam
1 egg
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
2 shiitake mushrooms, chopped very fine
1-2 Tbsp. ginger, minced
2 tsp. sesame oil
2 Tbsp. oyster sauce
3 green onions, minced
1 tsp. white pepper
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. Chinese cooking wine or dry sherry

Combine all ingredients, making sure to break up the Spam completely. Form into meatballs and set aside. Traditionally these are served with one giant meatball in each bowl, but I think it's easier to eat if you make them as smaller meatballs.

Soup:
2 qt. water or broth
1 large handful Chinese or regular celery, chopped
2 large handfuls of leafy greens or Napa cabbage, slivered if necessary
1/2 red onion, in thin slivers
2 green onions, sliced into rounds for garnish
1 Tbsp. light vinegar
1-2 tsp. dashi granules

Bring the water or broth to a boil and add the dashi granules to make a flavorful broth. Add the meatballs gently so that they don't break apart or stick to the bottom of the pot and simmer them for 8-10 minutes (smaller meatballs need less time).

Add the celery and simmer for 5 more minutes. Add the red onion and leafy greens and simmer for 2-3 more minutes until the greens are just cooked. Add the vinegar and adjust the seasoning with more salt, if necessary. Garnish with green onions and serve. You can also add noodles if you like.

Dark Beer Bread

2009-10-25T19:48:00.004-04:00

So the Great Dane Pub in Madison, Wisconsin, has amazing beer, but also amazing beer bread. It's dark, moist and delicious. I've been wanting to figure out how to make something like it for a while, and finally realized it's a bit like a Russian black bread. This was my first attempt to make it. I think what I needed was a different variety of beer (I used Leinie's Oktoberfest, which is all I had around, which was a bit too hoppy/bitter - their menus says they use a stout combined with a light beer, but anything dark with good carmel flavor would be good).

I've adapted the recipe from here.

Ingredients:
1/2 c. water
1 c. dark carmely beer (stouts are probably best here - best if room temp)
1 Tbsp. cider vinegar
2-3 Tbsp. molasses (you can substitute 1 Tbsp. brown sugar here for crispier crust)
1.5 tsp. yeast

2.5 c. bread flour
1 c. rye flour
1 tsp. salt
3 Tbsp. cocoa powder
2 Tbsp. butter (room temp)
1 tsp. instant coffee crystals (optional - or use a coffee porter for the beer)
1 Tbsp. caraway seed (optional)
1 tsp. fennel seeds (optional)

Instructions:
1. Mix 1/2 c. warm water with yeast and 1 Tbsp molasses. Let proof.
2. Mix flour, butter, cocoa powder, salt and seeds together.
3. Add water-yeast mixture, beer, and remaining 2 Tbsp molasses to the flour, combine.
4. Knead bread on floured surface until springy.
5. Rise 1 hour, punch down, rise until doubled, punch down, remove, knead briefly (5-6 kneads), shape into a round then let rise 20 minutes. Cut SMALL slits in the top to allow steam to release. You can reduce the rising as time allows.
6. Bake at 350 for 30-45 min.

You can serve this with just butter, though at the Great Dane they serve it with butter creamed with honey. It is as good as it sounds...

Mashed Cauliflower and Potatoes

2009-10-23T14:22:00.003-04:00

Not a recipe so much as a suggestion. Replace half of your potatoes with cauliflower when you're making mash for more flavor, texture, and a less heavy meal. Here it is in recipe form:

2 lbs starchy potatoes
1 large cauliflower head, cut into pieces
lots of salt
4 Tbsp butter
1/3 c. milk or cream
freshly ground black pepper
(optional seasonings include: paprika, roasted garlic, seasoned salt, etc...)

Peel and boil the potatoes in a large pot of well-salted water as you normally would for making mashed potatoes, but add enough water so that there's space for the cauliflower. Add the califlower 5-7 minutes before the potatoes will be done and continue boiling. Drain and mash with the remaining ingredients, season to taste.

African Gumbo with Squash

2009-10-23T13:19:00.004-04:00

I just returned from Ithaca and my thesis defense (I passed!), so hopefully I will be able to get back to cookin' and postin'. While I was there I stayed with my wonderful friend Chris. He spent time in Niger in the Peace Corps, where he learned (among other things) how to cook the various goopy glops of the local cuisine. Here is one such recipe, using okra and squash, which is very hearty and satisfying. The ingredients are flexible, but the okra is important for thickening. Chris also recommends adding a pinch of sand or goat dung for that authentic, gritty touch (optional!).

1 onion, diced
3 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 c. winter squash, cut into thin slices
2-4 c. okra, chopped (frozen works fine)
2-3 c. boiling water
1 Maggi or other boullion cubes
2-3 fresh hot peppers (jalapenos or hotter), chopped
salt to taste
dash of Maggi sauce or soy sauce
oil for cooking

Use an iron cauldron or dutch oven. Heat the oil and add the onions, cooking until they begin to soften and brown. Add the tomato paste and stir thoroughly so that it is well-distributed and begins to sizzle.

Add the squash pieces and spread them across the bottom of the pan. Add some hot water as they cook to keep them from sticking, and stir occasionally. When they are mostly soft, add the okra and the Maggi boullion, dissolved in 2 c. hot water. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer until the squash and okra begin to break down.

Using a potato masher or immersible blender, smash up the vegetables so that they are a slightly chunky puree. Add more water if it becomes too thick. Stir in the fresh peppers and simmer until they begin to soften. Season with salt and Maggi sauce or soy sauce.

One way to serve this is over rice that has been cooked into a semi-soft state and formed into balls. Simply boil all-purpose rice in a little more water than usual and stir it while boiling so that it forms a very thick porridge. Scoop with a spoon into a plate and pour the okra sauce over. We sprinkled it with crushed, roasted peanuts. Feel free to improvise with the recipe, too! I think that black eyed-peas or chicken could be added for more protein, to make it a one-dish meal.

Chicken Adobo

2009-09-27T22:57:00.007-04:00

It's our 200th recipe! (Or at least the 200th post). Things have slowed down a bit since our family doesn't have as much free time at the moment, but I think that with the winter weather the blog posts will pick up again. Here's an easy, flavorful, and inexpensive recipe that deserves to be part of our family's canon.

This is Filipino dish based on soy- and vinegar- and garlic-marinated meat (not the Mexican seasoning blend also known as 'adobo'). You can use any meat you like and it works especially well with cheaper cuts, like chicken leg pieces or pork shoulder. You can also alter your technique for how much time and patience you have--it's kind of like choose-your-own-adventure.

3-4 lbs of meat (bone-in chicken or pork chunks work well)
1 c. light soy sauce
1/2-1 c. water
1/2 c. white vinegar
1 entire BULB garlic, chopped
3 bay leaves
2 Tbsp. ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. salt

Combine all the ingredients in a shallow dish. If the marinade doesn't seem like enough to come up about half-way on the meat, increase the recipe. Cover and marinate the meat overnight, turning the meat from time to time so that it soaks up the marinade all over. You can actually skip the overnight marination if you're pressed for time and simply simmer the meat in the mixture, but it will turn out better if you marinate and then follow the next steps.

Skinless chicken legs marinating.

Place the meat in a pot or large saucepan and add all of the marinade, but strain out the garlic and reserve it for later use. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer for 25 minutes or until the meat is tender. Leave the pot uncovered so that it reduces some, but add water if it gets too low. You want to have at least 1 c. sauce. You can eat the meat at this point, or continue on for more deliciousness.

In a large frying pan or wok, heat 2-3 Tbsp of cooking oil. Add the garlic that you retained from the marinade and cook it, stirring, until it's lightly browned. Increase the heat and add the meat, cooking and turning it so that it gets browned and crisp on the edges. Add the remaining marinade to heat it through.

Serve with white rice and something green and zingy like a cucumber or papaya salad.

Baking Powder Dumplings

2009-09-22T17:40:00.003-04:00

This is Mom's standard dumpling recipe, excellent with chicken soup. Drop them in, put the lid on, and enjoy.

Ingredients:
2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 scant cup milk or water

Preparation:
Mix the dry ingredients, stir in the milk or water gradually to make a soft dough. Drop by spoonful into boiling salted water or simmering stew. Cover tightly, cook 10-15 minutes before lifting cover. Test for doneness, drain. Serve at once. Well, once they cool off so you don't burn your tongue.

PS - This is post 199! Hope someone does something special for #200!

Harried Mom Style Chili

2009-09-11T20:12:00.008-04:00

I recall making this very simple recipe many times as a young'un, when Mom was really busy working and herding us kids around. It was a bit of a standard, along with noodle kugel, that was easy enough for kids to make (and explains why it is not quite as complicated most of the recipes on this blog.) I just made it now, and remembered why it was great - you can go from zero to dinner in about half an hour.

It's a bit of an operation ice box recipe - you use more or less the cans you have around, and you can replace some of the ingredients. I'm just giving a basic idea below. It always turns out deliciously, but I'm sure you could do some other things to make it even more delicious (add pork products, beer, etc).

Ingredients:

1 onion
1 green bell pepper
2 cloves garlic
1 pound ground beef (optional for vegetarian style)
2 cans stewed tomatoes (not drained of liquid)
2 cans beans (one should be chili beans, but you could have black beans as well) (don't drain these)
1 can corn or hominy (drained of liquid - optional)
1 can black olives (optional - drained of liquid)
2 Tbsp chili powder
1/4-1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1-2 tsp cumin
1-2 tsp coriander
shake or two of Worcester or fish sauce
S&P

Instructions:
Sautee onions and garlic in oil, then once onions become partially transparent add green pepper. When both are somewhat soft, add meat, brown. Add spices.

Add all of the cans - tomatoes and beans should be added WITH their liquid, i.e. not drained. This provides the soupy part of the chili. Cook to combine (10-15 minutes), adjusting spices.

Serve with cheese on top if that's your thing, preferably with corn bread on the side.

Carrot Salad with Raisins

2009-08-25T23:24:00.002-04:00

I sort of invented this salad tonight, but I feel like I may have had something very similar before. It's very refreshing and light. All ingredients below are approximate and should be adjusted to taste. I gave the measurements for the dressing just for an idea of proportions.

Combine:
Carrots, grated
Raisins, blanched and cooled
(Optional) walnuts, crushed slightly

Add dressing:
1 lemon
1/2 tsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp salad oil or light olive oil
a bit of pomegranate molasses (or balsamic vinegar and some brown sugar)
a very tiny pinch of ground cloves
salt
a small amount of pepper

Enjoy!

Omelet Fillings

2009-08-23T13:24:00.005-04:00

So I was making omelets the other day, and I was thinking it might be fun to have a list of interesting omelet fillings, for those days when you want to try something new. Since I can't figure out how to let us all edit this post, we should add more ideas in the comments.

Tomatoes with Browned Garlic, Mozzarella, Parmesan and Basil:
Dice tomatoes, garlic, and optionally green onions. Brown garlic in olive oil, add green onions briefly, then add tomatoes - remove from heat, but keep stirring. Add the mix to the omelets with mozzarella, Parmesan and fresh basil leaves.

Mushrooms in Wine, with Basil and Rosemary:
Cut mushrooms into small chunks (I liked to leave them a little chunky). Brown in lots of butter (again, optional green onions), salt, add white wine. Cook down. Add basil and rosemary to the eggs. You could do this with or without cheese. I think I used Parmesan, cause that's what I had.

Za3tar:
Mix za3tar spice mix with olive oil until it makes a liquidy paste, then add to the omelet. It is also good with some green olives.